It seemed just like any other day at Havasu, except the air
was cool and it was early August. I was on an oar trip with Wilderness
and we pulled 3 snouts, 2 Canyons and a Maravia into the mouth of
Havasu and tied up. Down at the lower pull in were two Wilderness
Motor rigs and two Western Motor rigs. A private trip pulled in
and tied up two boats deep in the mouth and used our boats as a
bridge. Nine kayaks and a canoe were able to squeeze by all the
boats and skinny through the six-foot slot to paddle to their own
private dry dock near the first waterfall 100 yards up stream.
We got all the passengers off of the boats and assembled them on
shore to get their pre-made lunches for the all day Beaver hike
we had planned. Some of the boatmen looked up Havasu canyon and
saw a few scattered clouds, but only enough to remind you that a
flash flood is a possibility. Okie was in charge and made a hard
call due to less than perfect weather. The Beaver hike was changed
to a 1 hour up to the first pools and back, and then early to camp
to play volley ball. Tony Anderson had made a similar call and already
had his people coming back from a quick visit to the pools. Western
had pulled in early and had people well on their way to Beaver.
This typical, pleasantly sunny day, was about to change dramatically.
After a brief visit with the Wilderness boys at the lower pull in,
myself and a few other Wilderness boatmen returned to the boats
in the mouth to grab some food, water and shade, along with some
of the non-hiking passengers. I laid down on my ice chest and stared
up at the clouds that were moving very quickly, but provided decent
patches of shade to my boat in the sun.
Just then a distant roar started to turn my ears up like a deer
noticing a strange sound. The roar got louder and soon revealed
its identity as distant thunder. I looked over at a passenger who
was watching my peculiar paranoia and I laid back down. Just moments
later another low frequency roar began, except this time it was
up Havasu Canyon and was slowly getting louder—and rhythmic.
It was a helicopter 100 ft off of the Havasu Canyon floor coming
down the canyon. For two seconds, I wondered what the hell the chopper
was doing and then I saw a hand making a wavelike motion much like
splashing water in a pool. I screamed over the choppers roar along
with four other boatmen. “FLASH FLOOD! EVERYBODY OUT!!!! OUT,
OUT, EVERY BODY OUT!! NOW!”
It was mass confusion. Some people thought that we meant get on
the boats to leave. Parents ran around looking for their children.
One parent came up to me as I was screaming at his son, who was
deep in the mouth of the pull in spot, trying to get the vest that
was blown into the water from the chopper. He finally heard the
panic in our voices and left the life jacket in the water and ran
across the boats.
With everybody off of the boats, everything seemed strangely calm.
“What do we do?” I thought as I looked at the eight
perfectly calm boats sitting in the mouth. Is this a two-minute
warning or a twenty-minute warning? Should we cut the boats loose?
Is this a debris flow or just a mild flood? If we have even three
minutes we can get some of these boats out of here. It felt like
what I imagined to be a bomb on its way to destroy the boats.
Since two of the boats were almost completely out of the mouth of
the canyon, it seemed to make sense to try and move one at a time
out of the main path of the imminent water. It didn't make
sense at the time to cut the boats loose because we didn't
know what was coming— since it was high water, maybe the lake
that was there in the mouth would slow down a small flood. Standing
on those boats and untying them felt like having a shoelace caught
on a train track, with a train coming full speed. We were deeply
aware of anything that might indicate the water being near, and
none of us would commit to going into the mouth where there was
no immediate escape route up the shear 25 foot walls. We managed
to untie one of the boats and positioned it in the current of the
main river— about thirty feet down stream from what is considered
to be the mouth. We went back to get the second boat and then we
heard the horrible sounds— absolutely terrifying. The sounds
were not of the water, but of people way up stream screaming in
terror and warning those down stream. Okie and I were in the mouth
and stopped what we were doing. We sat there frozen for about ten
seconds listening to the yelling and screaming getting closer.
And then there it was... It seemed to be coming down the canyon
at automobile speeds. I had always envisioned a flash at Havasu
to be a wall of muddy water crashing through the canyon with reckless
abandon, but this moving water was smooth and beautifully blue.
It came like a wave on the ocean, five to six-feet tall, perfectly
smooth, with about a 45 degree angle to it. As the wave moved into
the narrowest part near the boats, the water instantly stood up
and filled the six foot wide slot completely to the top of the cliffs
with about an eighty degree, if not perfectly vertical, ten-foot
wall of blue water. Within seconds, Okie and I, were on the safe
ledge we had chosen as the escape route, and we watched the carnage
happen.
All the ropes seemed to snap at once like popcorn well into the
popping stage. One of the boats that was tied to a “bomber”
tie off, resisted the current for about three seconds, flipped onto
another raft, and slid back into the water upside down snapping
a D-ring off. Oars were swinging every where as eight boats pulled
out at the same time on the new muddy water pushing them. Trees
and kayaks stuck up out of the water like daggers between rafts
from all the congestion. One log about thirty feet long was somehow
lifted into a vertical position from all the debris and constriction,
and glanced off one of the boats when it crashed back down again.
There was a hellacious vortex of water where the Havasu water met
the Colorado, that violently shook and turned the boats as they
exited the mouth. The rafts floated out in the current and underneath
the chopper hovering over the Colorado. The flow seemed to be about
90% water and about 10% wood, and we began to wonder what to do
if we saw any people or bodies. An occasional life jacket, or piece
of clothing would surface and then submerge again—causing
an instinctual urge to jump into the river to help. All we could
do is watch for people and watch our boats go down stream.
The chopper pilot, Michael Moore had saved the day. His warning
was all that was needed to get everyone to high ground. Apparently
he saw the flood coming way up stream, and broke some rules of radio
contact and flight zones, and went on the warning mission. You could
easily argue that he saved a dozen lives that day.
Everyone was running around wondering what to do. Pat Phillips thought
it wise to jump onto one of the Western boats, that had already
snapped one of two “Queen Mary” bow lines, because of
the newly introduced current from Havasu. The upstream pontoon was
about 70% underwater, and the water actually ripped away one of
the kitchen boxes tied on the side of the raft. The Western boat
was a smart place to be to watch for people, since everything that
came out of the mouth either crashed into or went underneath those
boats. Okie, the lead on the Wilderness trip, started calling everyone
together to count heads and see what the next step was. The one
snout that was moved out of the mouth was still there in the current,
but was stressing the rope to its limit. There was a feeling that
the trip was definitely over— that there was no way we could
recover a trip from this situation. Several minutes had passed at
this point and it seemed apparent that the chopper had done its
job— there were no bodies that day.
It seemed pointless to just sit there and watch the remaining snout
break away and go down stream, so Pat and myself carefully boarded
the boat. The line was so tight it was unapproachable. Brett Starks
cut the line at the tie off point with just a touch of a dull Gerber
Shorty knife. Pat and I were catapulted like an accelerating sports
car into the current and bounced off the Western boats we couldn't
avoid. We had a few ideas of how we might pull some of the boats
to shore, but we were hoping that TA and his motor boats didn't
go too far for lunch, since the oar boats were several minutes ahead
of us.
At the mouth, the chaos had just begun. One of the passengers on
the private trip was in the water near the first pools when the
flood hit, and was rammed in the ribs by a log. Unable to pull herself
out of the current, she screamed for help. Patrick (Mowgli—The
Ex-Marine) was there and helped her to higher ground. A quick assessment
revealed not much more than some possible broken ribs, and an embarrassed
need for Mowgli's shirt.
Near the first crossing spot, one of the passengers, struck with
fear, interpreted “get to high ground” as “scale
the cliffs.” Climbing in panic, the soft spoken band teacher
soon realized he had climbed too far, and froze sixty feet up on
the cliff on a narrow ledge. Matt Penrod, an experienced climber
began a 11/2 hour rescue with a harness and some climbing equipment
he acquired from Park Service that had recently landed to assess
the situation at the river— things were mild compared to the
600 people stranded upstream near the Havasu village, and the Park
Service could only help so much. Matt scaled the 5.8 - 5.9 cliff
to the stranded climber and was able to assist in a thirty-foot
down climb to a spot where a harness could be used to lower the
passenger.
Upstream near Beaver Falls a dozen or so passengers began a series
of harrowing chopper flights through the canyon to get back to the
boats. One of the Western boatmen made an impossible trek along
the talus to get back to the boats for help and information.
Down on the Colorado river, TA, Christen, Aaron and Katie came to
the rescue of the boats. They had the difficult task of pushing
the boats to shore, while driving in a bog of driftwood and debris.
Pat and I met up with TA just as he had pulled all the boats ashore.
We righted the flipped raft and began making triple rigs with the
boats for a speedy trip down to Tuckup. At this point, we were asked
by Park Service over the radio if we could continue the trip. Amazingly,
we accounted for every boat, including kayaks, and gave the Park
Service the thumbs up for our ability to continue. Two Western boats,
who were unable to pull in because of the flash, met up with TA
and took on the responsibility of transporting the equipment for
the private trip. The brigade of oar boats tied to motor boats quickly
drove down to Tuckup and met up with Jason and Mike on the Wilderness
support boat, who had also been rescuing kayaks and equipment. Every
boat down stream had kayaks filled with driftwood on board.
With all boats at Tuckup, TA and the Western boats went down stream
to continue their trips. And there we sat— setting up a kitchen,
a chopper pad, and listening to the aircraft radio— eighteen
boats, four crew members and 45 people up stream.
Hours passed, and at Havasu, the stream slowly began to diminish.
Some spots became crossable with the assistance of life jackets,
some strong shoulders, and lines strung across the river. The whole
process of getting everyone back to the boats was horrendously slow
and people began to approach their limits. To make matters worse,
a severe thunderstorm was rolling in and nightfall was approaching.
All the Park Service could do was to make a final drop of food supplies
and life jackets, and take off into a dark and stormy night. With
ninety people raingear-less and shivering, the crew members made
the call to get to Tuckup via the two Western rigs. The boats were
heavy and slow and extremely wet from splashing. To make matters
worse, walls of rain began dumping on the rafts. The lightning was
flashing like a bad discotek, dozens of waterfalls crashed off of
every cliff, and the last mile was driven in complete darkness.
At Tuckup the chaos began again. Ninety people pulled into camp
in a horrendous rain storm, all looking for their bags and equipment
strung about like a two day church yard sale. No one could find
anything in all the chaos. The halogen and the generator saved the
day. With light on the scene and the smell of hot food cooking,
people were able to get situated. Some shivering children were quickly
taken to the shelter of an overhang and bundled up in dry sleeping
bags. With the camp situated, food in our bellies, bodies warmed
and fears behind, ninety people went to bed that night with a memory
of a life time.
In looking back on that day, I think the most impressive aspect
of how everything came together was the reactions of the people
involved. Every passenger and crew member rose to meet the occasion.
There was no time for judgment or ego. Some people became leaders,
some people became invaluable followers. Virtually every decision
was logical and the first priority was always safety.The Park Service
was there and gave exactly what help was needed. The chopper pilot
made the move that he knew he had to make— rules or no rules,
he couldn't have lived with himself had someone died that
day.
From a humanistic perspective, I think the most impressive thing
that happened that day was that people found that they had limits
beyond what they knew about themselves. I think when people are
pushed beyond their known limits, a strengthening of spirit occurs
and there is a re-kindling of what our real values are in life—being
alive with loved ones— having a healthy body.
On behalf of everyone involved with that incident, I would like
to thank the chopper pilot Michael Moore for his brilliant job of
warning everyone in Havasu canyon that day. I'm sure that
there are dozens of incidents deserving of praise and recognition
and I apologize for not being able to include these in this story.
My personal view is that the crew members of Western and Wilderness
orchestrated a brilliant recovery from that day and that the situation
could not have been handled in a better way. The Park Service, as
always, fit perfectly into the recovery, and a special thanks should
go to?????, for all of his hard work at the scene.
To sum up, I have made a list of suggestions and comments from the
input of some of the crew members involved to possibly aid in the
next Havasu episode. Please note that these suggestion and comments
are merely things to consider, and are not intended as advice on
what to do in case of a flash flood.
1. While sitting in the mouth on the boats, it is questionable as
to how much warning you will get from the sound of the water (Due
to the noise from the rapid). A better indicator in this case was
the sounds of people screaming, yelling and whistling, getting closer.
2. In the case of having a warning, a good call would be to remove
all the throw bags and the major first aid from the boats if possible.
The ropes will be extremely useful for swimmers and for crossing
the creek, and the Major isn't available when it down stream
or submerged.
3. If motor boats are below, chances are any swimmers will go right
next to them if not under them. Also someone should be near a motor
rig in case a swimmer goes out into the main stream.
4. If you have been warned of a flood coming and your decision is
to untie or remove some boats, post a dedicated scout above to give
you advanced warning. It is highly dangerous to be on the boats
when the water hits— oars and trees are flying everywhere.
5. Always send a First Aid kit up with the hikers.
6. When crossing flash flood streams, post people up stream to scout
for any huge logs coming, and down stream to aid anyone who may
fall in the current.
7. For Park Service— consider some sort of alarm or pre-warning
system, and consider a chopper pre- warning to be an excellent preventative
measure.
8. When it looks at all like rain up Havasu— blow it off and
go play volley ball in camp.
TJ (Tom Janecek)
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