About 56 miles downstream from Lees Ferry, the Colorado
River flows over yet another boulder strewn debris fan at the mouth
a large side canyon. It is Kwagunt Rapid, with an 6 rating in the
Steven's guide, and big hole in the middle. For many river runners,
that is all they need or want to know about it. But some people
may have wondered, where did that funny sounding name come from?
Perhaps you happen to be one who knows that it was named after a
Southern Paiute man who once roamed that part of eastern Grand Canyon
in the mid-to-late 1800s. If so, did you ever wonder what kind of
man he was and why his name is attached to that canyon?
His name is spelled variously as Kwagunt or Quagunt or sometime
simply Quah; it is an anglicized version of his Paiute name, Qua-gun-ti,
which means “Quiet Man”. As the name implies, Kwagunt,
unlike his contemporaries Tapeats and Chuarumpeak, was not a politically
outspoken leader. He was born sometime in the first half of the
19th century, probably in the 1850s, and for the first years of
his life, he lived with his family around several springs in House
Rock Valley. The family traveled seasonally into Grand Canyon to
gather “yant” (a clonal species of agave) in the springtime;
in the fall, they moved up onto the Kaibab Plateau to hunt deer
and gather pinyon nuts and other wild foods. During the rest of
the year, they resided along the eastern flanks of the Kaibab Plateau,
gathering grass seeds, hunting rabbits, and growing small gardens
of corn, beans and squash.
The story that follows is Kwagunt's story, as related to Brigham
Riggs, a Kanab cattleman, sometime in the late nineteenth century.
It relates some of his personal experiences as a youth and young
man in the mid to late 1800s. For all Southern Paiutes, this was
a time of severe cultural stress due to decimation of their population
from hunger, violence, and the introduction of European diseases,
as well as physical displacement from their prime water sources
and most productive gardens and collecting areas as a result of
Mormon colonization and the introduction of livestock. As this story
demonstrates, it was a particularly difficult time for Kwagunt.
Here is his story:
The Indian came to Riggs' home one winter day to visit Mr.
Riggs. They were talking about days gone by. Riggs asks the Indian
why his squaw was crying on a certain day they happened to meet
on the road between Kanab and Kaibab mountain. The Indian hesitated
a while and then told this story.
“My squaw was crying because I was taking her back to Buckskin.
(Buckskin was the name the people gave to the Kaibab Mountain until
it began to be advertised for its scenic attractions). She wanted
to stay at Kanab with the rest of the Indians but I hated the whiteman
and did not want to live where they were, so I was going back to
Buckskin, which was home to me. I have hated the white man all my
life and have had a good cause for doing so. When I was a little
boy I lived in what you call House Rock Valley. I lived with my
father, mother, big brother and a sister. There was another family
living there with us, a man, his squaw, and a grown girl. I was
about the size of your little girl and my sister was about the size
of the other girl. (About seven and ten). One evening two Indians
came to our camp driving some cows that some Navajos had given them
to pay for helping drive cattle over the Buckskin. The Navajos had
stolen the cattle over the Buckskin. The Navajos had stolen the
cattle down around St. George some where. (Note: So many cattle
had been stolen from the settlers by Indians that a company was
organized to punish the next raders and this was the first rade).
The Navajos took their cattle on to Lee's Ferry and we moved
south to South Canyon. We killed one cow to have meat. Next morning
about sun up some white men came close to our camp and began to
shoot. Our men got their guns and started to shoot at the white
men. My sister and myself ran and hid in the rocks. We hid all day
and everything was very still. When we dared to come out we looked
around and found all the Indians dead but we could not find any
of the squaws. We didn't know what to do. There were no Indians
living on this side (the east side) of the mountain. My sister had
been over on the west side of the mountain once but I never had.
We know we had to go where there were some Indians or we would die
during the winter. The only place we knew of to go was Moccasin
where our tribe lived. (Moccasin is eighteen miles south west of
Kanab.) We were afraid to go over the mountain because we were afraid
of the white men and it was late in the fall and it may snow so
deep that we would be snowed in and freeze to death. We decided
to try to make it around the south end of the Buckskin Mountain.
We took a small jug to carry water in and some meat and started
down South Canyon. I got tired and my feet got sore. I would cry
and my sister would carry me on her back till she got tired then
I would walk again. Sister's feet got so sore that you could
follow her tracks by the blood on the rocks. When we got down off
the mountain into the big canyon (Grand Canyon) we stopped two or
three days to let our feet get well so we could walk. We had been
down in the canyon every spring to gather yant*. About halfway to
the bottom of the big canyon we started west. Sometimes we could
not find water for a long way. One day sister fell off a rock and
hurt her very bad. I thought she was dead, she laid still so long.
I was afraid because I could not go on alone. After a long time
I saw here move a little, then she made a funny noise. After a long
time she raised up and wanted water. She wanted water all the time.
I had to go back a long distance after it every day, and then the
rest of the day I would have to gather grass seeds to have something
to eat. We had to stay three or four days before sister got so she
could walk. She couldn't walk very far the first few days.
We would have to go a long way up around box canyons and out around
points. We had good places to sleep. We found good caves where it
was warm. One time we got into a place where it didn't rain
and no grass grew. We very nearly starved to death before we got
to where we could find some grass seeds. One night it rained down
where we were but snowed higher up on the mountain. We went up into
the snow and found a rabbits' tracks. We followed it up into
the deep snow and caught it. This gave us strength to go on. We
came to Kanab Creek and found plenty of water and grass seeds. We
followed the creek up out of the canyon. One night we saw a camp
fire. We sneaked up close enough to see if it was white men or Indians.
It was Indians out hunting antelope. We stayed with them till they
went to Moccasin. It took us one moon and a half to make the trip.
When we got to Moccasin we found that the white men had left our
mother to Moccasin with the Indians there, but she got sick and
died before we got there. We never got to see her again. I have
hated the white men ever since. I swore I would kill white men enough
to pay for my people that the white men had killed. Many times out
on the Buckskin I have hid by the side of the road to kill a white
man. Every time it would be you or some of the other white men who
had been good to my squaw and ipats (boy), so I would let you go
by. You, Ed Lamb, Tom Stewart, Walt Hamblin (Cowmen from Kanab and
Orderville) were all good to my people so I never did kill a white
man. I grew up with the Indians at Moccasin and Kanab, but as soon
as I got old enough I left to live on the Buckskin away from the
white men. When I was a young man the camp was very hungry. They
wanted someone to go find some meat. We didn't have any bullets
to shoot in our guns so we had to go with out anything but a bow
and arrows. Two other young fellows and myself left to hunt deer
on the Buckskin. As soon as we got to the foot of Buckskin we saw
a big buck track. We tracked it up and found it. It was a big buck
with long horns. We spread out to drive him up on the mountain into
the deep snow. One of the fellows gave out and had to stop. The
other fellow and myself went on. We kept the deer going up hill.
When the snow got deep we got in the trail behind him. When the
deer got tired my partner hid behind a little bushy tree. I worked
my way around above the deer and scared him back down the trail
he had made going up. When the buck came by my partner had a big
club all ready and hit him across the back just in front of the
hips. That brought him down so he could not get up. We got him killed
and ready to go that night. Early next morning we started back with
the hide and meat. Another time we went on a rabbit drive. We went
out east of Kanab and set up our nets. Then we took a circle out
two or three miles to drive the rabbits into the nets. About the
time we started back a very bad blizzard came up. We all started
for camp as fast as we could go. One man didn't come to camp
that night. Next morning we all went out to look for him. We found
him about two miles from camp. He was kneeling down on one knee
with his bow and arrow in his hand frozen stiff. He looked like
he was alive but he was dead. The way we would get rabbits with
our nets was a pretty good way. We would find a place where rabbits
like to run and set up our nets. The nets were made of yuka strings.
They were from ten to twenty-five yards long. We would put all we
had out in a long string, sometime a hundred yards long. We would
put them up on stakes driven into the ground. When we got our nets
set we would take a circle out around the part of the country we
wanted to make our drive through. We then formed into a half circle
a short distance apart and would go towards the net. The rabbits
would go to the nets and follow along it. There would be an Indian
stationed at each end and some times along in the center. When the
rabbits came along the Indians would shoot them. We would take the
rabbits to camp, build a large fire out of sagebrush, and would
take enough rabbits to make a meal for the camp and put them in
the fire and burn the hair off, when we didn't want the hair
to make ropes with. When the hair as all burned off we moved the
coals and ashes away and put the rabbits in a pile, then bury them
in hot ashes and coals. When they are cooked we take them out and
pull the ears off and give them to the older people, chief or Medicine
man. That was the best part of the rabbit. The children got a leg
or a piece of the back. The liver and heart were eaten, then the
intestines were removed and the stuff was stripped out with the
finger and thumb, then eaten. The eyes and brain and every bit of
the rabbit was eaten but the hide and bones. There were not many
rabbits. We kept them killed off for food. They furnished a good
part of our food supply. There was a lot of different kinds of roots
we could dig at different times of the year. Grass and weed seeds
in the summer and fall. Nearly every year we had a good crop of
pinyon nuts and acorns that we ate. We would gather all we could
get of these kind of things to live on during the winter. We would
dry meat when we could get it. Sometimes we would have plenty to
eat and sometimes we would nearly starve. There was always deer
on the Buckskin and antelope down in the valleys but they were wild
and hard to get till we got guns, and then lots of times we didn't
have any powder.”
* Yant is a member of the yuka family. It has short stubby leaves,
very much like a century plant. It is a multiplying plant. Each
year a new shoot comes out by the side of the others and each year
one of the cluster goes to seed and dies. It takes many years for
the plant to go to seed after it comes up. In the early spring a
seed stock comes out of a plant and grows into a stock as high as
twelve feet, as big as four inches in diameter at the but, and the
seeds grow in the small pods along the stock. In the spring before
the stock starts to grow, the plant has a heart in the center. Sometimes
four inches in diameter. The heart somewhat resembles a turnip.
After it is cooked it is more like a banana. The plant grows in
the rocky breaks to the Grand Canyon. The Indians would go into
the Canyon in the spring to gather the plant for food. It has very
tough roots and is very hard to pull or dig. The Indians would dig
out a pit near their camp and build a fire in it to make it very
hot. Then they go gather the yant plant that would go to seed that
year, and carry them to camp. When they got enough to fill the pit
they would put them in and burry them in the hot ashes and leave
them over night. When they were cooked the leaves were easily pulled
off. What was left after the camp had been fed was pressed into
cakes and dried for future use. It was very good to eat.
I often used to wonder if the black haired, buckskin-clad
skeleton that the Bus Hatch expedition found at South Canyon on
1934 expedition might have been Kwagunt. But in the course of doing
research for this article, I learned a few more things about Kwagunt.
According to Southern Paiute oral tradition, Kwagunt, along with
a brother and sister, discovered the canyon that now bears his name
while trying to hide from Apache raiders. The brother and sister
lived there for a while, and after their deaths, Kwagunt claimed
the area as his own. They say he discouraged visitors to the valley
"because he wanted to keep the sage seeds to himself".
He was still using the area when John Wesley Powell undertook his
topographic survey of the Arizona Strip in 1871-1872, and it was
probably while accompanying Powell and H.C. Demotte on a reconnaissance
of the Kaibab Plateau in August, 1872 that Kwagunt informed Powell
of his claim to the area. By the mid 1870s, however, most Southern
Paiutes had abandoned efforts to live off the land in the traditional
manner and had moved into settlements adjoining the Mormon communities
at Kanab and Pipe Springs, leaving Kwagunt to eke out a lonely existence
without the support of family or friends. Eventually, Kwagunt gave
up trying to live on his own in the traditional manner, moved to
Kanab, earned meager wages chopping wood and doing other chores
for whites, and died on the Kaibab reservation as he had lived—
quietly.
Helen Fairley
References:
Altschul, Jeffrey H. and Helen C. Fairley 1989 Man, Models and Management:
An Overview of the Archaeology of the Arizona Strip. Report prepared
for BLM and US Forest Service. Copies on file at BLM Office, St.
George, USDA Forest Service Office, Fredonia and Museum of Northern
Arizona Library, Flagstaff.
Euler, Robert C. 1966 Southern Paiute Ethnohistory. University of
Utah Anthropological Papers No. 78, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Fowler, Don D. and Catherine S. Fowler 1971 Anthropology of the
Numa: John Wesley Powell's Manuscripts on the Numic Peoples of Western
North America, 1868-1880. Smithsonian Contributions to Anthropology
No. 14, Washington, DC.
Fowler, Don D., Robert C. Euler, and Catherine S. Fowler 1969 John
Wesley Powell and the Anthropology of the Canyon Country. US Geological
Survey Professional Paper 670, Washington, DC.
Kelly, Isabel T. 1964 Southern Paiute Ethnography. University of
Utah Anthropological Papers no. 69, Salt Lake City.
Quag-unt, Life story told to Brigham Adelbert Riggs, typescript
(BANCMSSP-F 314:58), in Utah Biographies, 1934-1940, The Bancroft
Library, University of California, Berkeley. Printed with permission
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