On my return from the Old Timer's river trip in 1994, a friend asked me what was different from that first trip fifty-six years ago. I realized that nothing was the same except for the geomorphism of the canyon itself, the possibility of unforeseen and threatening changes in the weather or the rock walls, and the possibility of failure of equipment, guides, or the passenger herself. And the ebb and flow of the Colorado still affected our activities daily, although before the dam and effective communication, changes in the river level seemed less predictable.
Certainly different was my advance perception of risk. In September of l994 no grizzled old-timers stood on the streets of Moab or on the shores of Green River, Utah, and warned us of the danger, suggesting that we turn back before it was too late. We had read the published reports by Powell, Stanton, Kolb and others. Even self-reliant Buzz Holmstrom had written that the canyon “was no place for a woman”. Colonel Birdseye had advised against my going on the trip, although he very kindly provided topographic maps when my father and I talked with him in Washington. Before the trip, when asked if I were afraid, I probably said that I recognized the danger, but was willing to chance it. I know that, later, on stops in Marble Canyon and the South Rim, when asked if I were ever scared, the only sensible answer was “Sure”. Fortuitously I was unaware until long after the trip that Norm's experience in running rapids was based entirely on his trips on the San Juan. In contrast, in l994, of course I knew the long record of safe passage of thousands of tourists under the care of experienced guides, with vastly different equipment, training and support systems.
Distance traveled:
The first trip originated at Green River, Utah, and included Cataract and Glen Canyons and then Grand Canyon down to Pearce Ferry. In 1994 we put in at Lee's Ferry and ended the trip at Diamond Creek.

Elapsed time: (in days) 1938 1994
Green River, UT to Lees Ferry 18 -
Lees Ferry to Bright Angel Trail 5 51/2
Bright Angel to Diamond Creek - 61/2
Bright Angel to Pearce Ferry 13 -
Total 36 12

Obviously elapsed time is not a very good way to compare the two trips, as in 1994 the emphasis was not on survival, and time was spent in photography, scientific measurements and discussions. However, the eighteen days spent on the first phase of the l938 trip, although only nine to ten days had been projected, was the factor that caused Don Harris to feel that he could not afford the time for the entire trip.
About equipment: Norm's boats were great on the river, not bad on the many lining jobs, less great if they had to be horsed over-land over big rocks, as we did in Cataract Canyon. However, I much prefer small boats, sad-irons or dories, equipped with oars, to motor-propelled monsters. In some situations those pontoon boats have some advantages in terms of maneuvering, carrying lots of stuff and salvaging equipment or passengers, and riding a monster sure beats walking around a rapid.
Camping equipment has been greatly affected by new materials developed as a result of World War II, space programs, and the increased interest in out-door activities of all kinds. In l938 we had no surplus ammo cans nor rubber-bags to protect gear, no propane stoves, and no communication equipment. Because of space limitations, we carried as little stuff as possible and therefore had no tents (light-weight or otherwise), no generators and no big ice-chests now carried on those scorned monsters. Sleeping bags were available, but were heavy, and worse, expensive. For a bed-roll, I used overlapping blankets and an air-mattress (ah, indulgence) enveloped in a heavy canvas ground cloth, a mammoth to stuff into hatches.
Communications equipment: In l938— Zip. We did light a signal fire that could be seen from Desert View. Inability to communicate contributed to the concern of families and friends, and to the feeding frenzy of the press when our arrival at Lees Ferry was delayed.
River traffic: In l938 there were only our three little boats until Buzz went down late in the summer. This solitude was a wonderful experience, but last summer I enjoyed meeting the other river trips at a time when the numbers were limited.
Food: First of all, any mom knows how great it is when some one else (anyone else) does the cooking— even better than eating out. Elzie and I alternated as cooks in l938. Most menus involved canned foods, even potatoes, fruit and dried milk (Klim) from cans. There is no comparison to the delicious meals of the l994 trip. The wonderful melons, citrus fruit, French toast, eggs and bacon for breakfast; all those great cheeses and meats and bread (not Rye-Crisp and Underwood Ham) for lunches, and all those great salads, vegetables and even fresh meat for dinner!
Rules and regulations: In 1938— none. Initially I (a product of a conservation-minded family) winced when we dumped cans in piles, and especially when we painted our names on the wall at the end of Cataract Canyon. But I followed the crowd and did all of those things. Burning stuff was fine with me, as was the use of driftwood for those charcoal-producing fires. I shall eternally respect both the guides' organization and the Park Service for imposing the regulations about sewage and rubbish disposal, and even for limiting the number of river travelers.
Motivation for trip: Elzada Clover and I perceived the trip solely as an exciting collecting trip, to some degree under our control. My first surprise was to see the white boats with the words Nevills Expedition, painted in large green letters. Elzie explained that because the trip received only a small grant for photographic equipment, the University of Michigan could not be considered an official sponsor, although we had permission to take part. But in reality there were two aims, collecting plants, and gaining publicity for Norm's river business. Gene Atkinson undertook the trip for fun but also to collect animals for the museum for which he would work in the fall. For this reason he brought traps for small animals, a gun and preserving materials. This stuff, like our plant presses, took up considerable space in the hatches. The goose and deer were shot with the preservation of skins in mind, not for food nor to show Gene's skill with a gun. However, there was neither free time, nor space, to preserve and maintain these specimens. Elzie and I did indeed bring back numbers of pressed plants, but this process is easier than preserving animals and there were two of us to alternate collecting with camp duties. Gene simply could not function as a boatman and a collector at the same time, nor was he free to call a halt when he sighted an animal. I don't think that I realized in advance that there could be a conflict of interest in terms of motivation, or in terms of scheduling our travel on the river. Norm himself possibly did not initially realize what a pain collecting can be in terms of time and bulk. In contrast, the l994 trip was under the direction and control of one individual, who set up the travel schedule to accommodate the scientific aims of the trip: the geologic observations, the matching of photographs, and the collecting of historical material from the old timers.
Vegetation: To me the most obvious difference is the much greener look to the area immediately bordering the river, partly due to the great increase in frequency of the tamarisk. There have of course been changes in the numbers and distribution of individual species. I believe later botanists have had the time to study plant communities without the need of snatching as many specimens as possible in the time between landing boats and falling into bed. In l938, plant presses were only taken out of the hatches at camping stops, with the exception of a few locations like Vasey's Paradise. I am also very aware that because many of the species were new to me, I depended on our specimens, rather than my observations, to collaborate with Elzada on the two papers we published. My journal is conspicuously lacking in botanical references. Elzie was very familiar with the flora of the southwest, and was very much more directed in her collecting.
Of course, the most obvious difference is that in l938 I was twenty four years old, in relatively good shape physically, not a good climber but comfortable with row boats. In 1994, I was not only heavier, but much less limber and more lacking in a sense of balance. My amused surprise at the folding chairs being loaded at Lee's Ferry changed to appreciation very quickly. There must have been more low rocks for sitting in l938, or perhaps the sand was not so far down.
Whatever the differences, both trips were satisfying for good companions and excitement.

Lois Jotter Cutter