I just went to Moab for the meeting of the Glen Canyon Institute,
the group that wants to decommission Glen Canyon Dam and drain Powell
and let the Glen Canyon restore itself. What a dandy collection
of young, old and ancient boatmen. What a collection of humorless
environmentalists, mostly—thank God—drowned out by old
boatman stories. Richard Ingebretsen, a Salt Lake doctor, who ran
Glen Canyon as a Boy Scout, is President. Dave Wegner, the former
king of all the Grand Canyon science studies that went on for years
building up to the gceis, vice-presides; Jeri Ledbetter, former
president of the Grand Canyon River Guides, treasures.
It's a curious amalgam: batches of us who saw it or saw part
of it and cannot supervene the guilt of not having saved it; scientists;
poets and writers. It has that amalgam of quixotry and hard science
and far-seeing political realism that I find really appealing. They
announced right out, “We're never going to get big,
we're never going to diffuse into other issues, we're
never going to get a Washington fundraising staff.” This is
pretty irresistible to an ex-Audubon member, ex-Sierra Clubber,
ex-Wilderness Societal.
Of considerable interest were the 20-year series of slides taken
by an Escalante Canyon backcountry ranger who watched silt deposited,
revealed by lake recession, removed by torrents. The gist is that,
at least in the narrower canyons, restoration by reaming, recolonization,
and re-draping of desert varnish is much more rapid than we perhaps
expected.
Katie Lee sang to us—old Katie Lee that is approaching 80
and tough as nails and still a pagan. I bought her Folk Songs of
the Colorado when I was about 19. Later I got her album, Love's
Little Sisters (alternate title Katie Lee Goes Whoring), which is
the whore songs of the nineteenth century. She did another one with
a companion book called Ten Thousand Goddam Cattle, with real cowboy
songs.
At the meeting, for the auction, there was a picture of her taken
in a side canyon of the Glen, her standing, bestriding the whole
slot canyon, back to the camera, nude in her perfection, arms upreached
in reverence to the stone wilderness stretching out hundreds of
feet and miles below her down to the Colorado, goddess of the rock;
and when I looked into her eyes, there in the midst of that age-blotched
face, they were there, the sharp blue eyes of the young woman in
1952, when she first saw the Colorado, gave up her Hollywood career,
and headed to the river.
And I remembered her talking of how she fell in love with her boatman
“as you're supposed to do,” and found myself in
love with her, so I told her how much I admired her songs, what
they had meant to me thirty years ago as a young boatman. She read
from her journals from the 1950s, trip after trip down the Old San
Juan, the Glen, trips with the legendary boatmen including a few
who were there at the meeting and most that are long-dead; she read
to us, and the young boatwoman beside me began to cry, and went
out into the snow to try to calm herself, and went up to Katie with
the small drifts on her shoulders and in her hair, and told her,
calmly and in control at first, “You're so beautiful,”
and soon was sobbing again saying, “You're so beautiful,”
and running again out into the storm; and Katie telling us that
from the river she had learned that Time is not an enemy; and watching
a video of old Ed Abbey the day they applied the crack to Glen Canyon
Dam, urging subversion and announcing handsomely from beneath his
slouchy old hat, “We'll win. And in the words of my
sainted old grandmother, ‘we'll piss on their graves.'”
It's $10 for students, $25 for individuals, and on up. Keen
prizes and auction items. The best company.
Loose its chains; set our river free.
Earl Perry
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