|
n response to comments in the Summer 1998 Boatmanıs Quarterly Review,
I felt obliged to offer another guideıs point of view on the crmp.
First, the ³umbrella concept,² viewing the Grand Canyon as one
big wilderness: itıs a nice idea, but not a practical management
tool. Dare I say it? I actually agree with the Park Service, and
feel the Colorado River should be managed independently from the
rest of the backcountry. In my mind, thereıs a huge difference between
the river corridor and the Grand Canyon backcountry. Take visitor
use, a key factor in management: weıre talking 22,000 folks per
year on the River versus perhaps twenty backpackers per year in
remote stretches of the western Grand Canyon. In addition, there
is already a large community of commercial outfitters utilizing
the Colorado River; this is not the case in the Grand Canyon backcountry.
Does this call for two separate approaches? Iıd say yes. Remember,
too, the river corridor is not ³pure² wilderness. The ecology of
the Colorado River and its riparian habitat has been severely altered
by Glen Canyon Dam. In contrast, the zone between River and Rim
(with the exception of the Inner Corridor trails) hasnıt changed
since Anasazi times.
Second, regarding the phrase ³providing the best possible river
experience,² my question is this: What exactly is a quality river
experience, in the eyes of a visitor? Too often I think we approach
this question using a river guideıs criteria, rather than a river
passengerıs viewpoint.
Through the years Iıve run all varieties of Grand Canyon trips:
rowing, motor, exchanges at Phantom and no exchanges, and take-outs
at Whitmore, Diamond, and Pearce. My conclusion is this: longer
trips are preferred by the guides, not necessarily by the clients.
Yes, spending more time in the Canyon does allow folks to leave
behind their thoughts of civilization, and personally I prefer a
nine-day or longer trip with no exchanges. However, Iıve seen people
leave at Phantom Ranch on Day four who were genuinely touched by
the Grand Canyon. I bet if you asked them, theyıd say they had a
quality experience.
Some argue itıs important for river visitors to see the entire
Grand Canyon, not just a segment. If this is true, then all trips
should continue to Pearce Ferry, for those taking out at Diamond
Creek see only three-quarters of the Canyon, and miss the lower
Granite Gorge (in my opinion one of the most beautiful stretches
of the river). Furthermore, several river passengers have told me
their reason for hiking in or out at Phantom Ranch was financial:
they simply couldnıt afford the full Canyon adventure. If we want
to keep Colorado River trips open to lower income folks, we need
to continue offering partial trips.
And what about crowding at side canyons and campsites? Most agree
a quality river experience does not include crowds. Clearly we need
better launch scheduling to reduce the problem. In addition, let
me suggest that ³invasive² technology such as helicopter take-outs
at Whitmore and motorized rafts, can increase the quality of a river
experience by providing the scheduling flexibility to reduce crowding.
Furthermore, motor guides often use the advantage of speedier river
travel to space themselves between other trips to minimize crowds
at attraction sites, or to leave the nearby camps open for rowing
trips traveling at a slower pace. If all river trips are forced
to conform to the same mode of travel and the same take-out, we
may experience more crowding at key points in the Canyon.
Eliminating Whitmore take-outs seems to be a popular idea with
some folks. Again, if the goal is providing the best experience
for the clients, the Whitmore take-out is hard to beat. It provides
maximum time for hiking the side canyons in the upper Canyon and
provides escape from the extreme heat of the lower Canyon in the
mid-summer months. Most river passengers tell me an important part
of their Grand Canyon trip is the time spent off river, exploring
the side canyons. While the lower Canyon is a lovely place to explore
in the spring and the fall, during the hot months of June, July,
and August it can be a furnace. In hot weather, few groups bother
hiking the side canyons below Whitmoremost of the time is spent
on the rafts hurrying towards Diamond Creek or Lake Mead. Above
Whitmore there are several side canyons with shade and water in
which to break up the hot days. Furthermore, running Lava Falls
is a climax of many trips, and folks leaving the river after Lava
leave the Canyon on a real high note; contrast this to the mood
of people leaving at Pearce Ferry after sitting on a hot boat for
two days, and then encountering a parade of jet skis and power boats
on upper Lake Mead.
The bottom line is this: letıs realize ³providing the best possible
river experience² for all visitors means providing a choice between
motor and oar rafts, and a choice in trip length and take-outs.
Thereıs more than one way to obtain a quality Grand Canyon experience!
Mary Allen
|