|
f all the myriad places people considered to witness the birth of
the new millennium, perhaps no other could put this mere tick
of time into clearer perspective than our own Grand Canyon. This
planet's most awesome tribute to the insignificance of human
time has witnessed the passing of at least 5,000 millenniums, and
that's just counting the time since it's been a hole in
the ground! Grand Canyon simultaneously inspires feelings of spiritual
grandeur and mocks such trivial time passages. You couldn't
conceive of a more intellectually contrary place to watch the dawn
of this great moment in time, than this, the ultimate expression
of timelessness. It comes as no surprise then, that within the depths
of this great gorge, a unique branch of the Grand Canyon familythe
Phantom Ranch Familyrecently gathered for a historic reunion.
Family you say? Isn't that like a father and mother and their
children? Well, if the Colorado River is the father
of the mother-of-all-canyons, indeed it follows that
this splendid landform can engender her own children. It all comes
down to place, particularly this place and how it transforms those
lucky enough to call it home at some point in their lives. The Phantom
family shares a unique and colorful history that is little known
to those whose only impression of the place is something akin to
that lemonade stand. As the now far-flung members of
the Phantom family took to the trail, returning in a very real sense
to the place of their birth, they began to understand
their rightful place within the larger expanse of Grand Canyon's
human history. Far from the limelight of Grand Canyon Village, Phantom
Rancher's have evolved a way of life that would seem familiar
to the likes of the ancestral Pai, John Hance, or W. W. Bass.
Not to mention one helluva New Year's Eve party! And if some
people out there in outer space (contrasted against
those who live down here in inner space) hold one mistaken
impression of Phantom Ranchers, it's that they are simply unruly
rouges. This distorted and ill-founded reputation created a minor
scare during the planning stage of the reunion when certain bureaucrats
sent a letter to all invitees stating that they had become extremely
apprehensive about the potential for uncontrolled behavior and resource
damage. In truth, the likelihood of the Ranchers trashing
their cherished old stomping grounds was about as real as Pink Floyd
coming down to play for the event (an honest-to-God nationwide rumor).
And so on the last day of the old millennium, Phantom Ranch welcomed
back close to ninety ex-employees and their guests, some dating
back as far as 1971 and darn near worthy of the title Grand
Canyon Pioneer (some of them looked it too!). Never before
have so many illustrious All-Stars of this unique resort
ever assembled in one place and the fact that it happened at the
Ranch made it all the more special for everyone involved. Many people
traveled from across the country to be here and one person even
changed their millennium destination from Antarctica to the Ranch!
The story of how this remarkable reunion came to be is a perfect
example of how deeply the Phantom experience touches the lives of
all who experience it.
It started in June, 1992, long before the word y2k had been invented,
when manager Warren Tracy got the idea for a Phantom Ranch get-together,
to be held at what then seemed a very long time in the futurethe
year 2000. Warren and his staff ultimately agreed to host a big
millennium bash that would be open to those who used to live and
work at the Ranch. The real display of commitment by Warren and
his staff however, was the decision to pay for the whole thing!
This would be accomplished by investing a portion of their tip money
into a dedicated mutual fund account, which started with nothing
more than a $250 initial investment, followed by $100 monthly investments
thereafter. The fund grew to the point that every single bed, every
meal, and every mule for two consecutive nights was reserved and
paid for in full for those ex-Ranchers who wanted to celebrate the
millennium at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. (By the way, the Ranch
currently costs about $6,000 per night to completely charter).
And so the reunion became a reality. Warren sent his first newsletter
in April, 1996 asking those who received it if they knew the whereabouts
of any lost members of the family. Eventually about
130 ex-Ranchers were located, with the majority of them having worked
at the Ranch from the early 1970s onward. Perhaps many of the real
old-timers were just too far removed from the experience to be located
but Warren also suggested that a big change may have occurred in
what kind of person worked at the Ranch prior to the 1970s. He wondered
if perhaps before that time employment at the Ranch was considered
undesirable or even a hardship. This completely changed in the early
1970s when outdoor sports were popularized and the opportunity to
live and work inside the Grand Canyon became a highly sought after
option for recent graduates of the late sixties college scene.
In any case, close to half of those contacted by the Ranch made
it down for the millennium. The reunion had the air of a larger-than-life
event. In fact, it seemed as if the millennium became secondary
to the camaraderie and sense of history that was all too evident
as the real reason for coming back to the Ranch.
Golden leaves could still be found high in Phantom's cottonwood
trees, but just five hours into the new millennium a fresh snow
started to fall in the Canyon as low as the Muav Limestone. It was
the first moisture Arizona had seen since September 22 and was not
even visible on the radar of any forecasts for the millennium weekend.
This led everyone to agree that the storm must have been the work
of Vishnu or Zoroaster, who obviously were greatly placated by the
presence of such renown personalities, and tried to keep everyone
inside Grand Canyon once and for all. No one would have minded and
the welcomed moisture boded well for the new millennium.
It became evident to all attendees at the Millennium Reunion that
the Phantom Ranch experience is unique and that it continues to
positively influence the ex-Ranchers in their present lives. They
agreed that the experience was profound and transcends time. Skills
that were learned here years ago continue to be used in diverse
places.
As the many personalities made their way back up to outer
space, the current Ranch staff gradually settled back into
their normal routine. I was amazed at how little had
changed in the overall character of Phantom Ranch employees since
the day I stumbled into this little slice of heaven 25 years ago.
Exactly as it was then, there was talk in the bunkhouse late at
night of the Colorado River, Ribbon Falls, and all things Grand
Canyon.
Phantom Ranch is indeed a very special place. It combines both the
raw and rugged beauty of the Grand Canyon with a modicum of 20th
(now 21st) century amenities such as good food, a hot shower, and
most importantfamily. No one is aware yet of any plans for
a reunion during the next change of millennium but two things are
for surethe mutual fund account for that one will grow quite
large and the Grand Canyon will still be a great place to grow a
family.
Wayne Ranney
|