I had met this person: she was in the anti-war
movement when I was in the Marine Corps, and I found that quite amusing,
listening to her stories, and her talking about politics and things like
that. I ended up seeking her out after I got out of the Marine Corps,
and tried to find her. I ended up going to Havasu Canyon with her on a
little backpacking trip. I thought that was pretty ridiculous, because
when I was in the military, you avoided carrying things on your back,
and you tried to avoid walking long distances. But I went with her, and
discovered this place, Havasu Canyon. I went down there one day, and I
was swimming in all the pools and stuff, and we went down to the river
and we're hangin' out on the river, and the big old boat pulls
up, a motor rig, and it drives into the mouth of the canyon, and it just
blew my mind. I looked out at the river and I thought, “I can't
believe there's people down here with boats! I want to do this!”
I think it was like the fourth time I'd ever been to the Grand Canyon
in my life. I just saw this boat, and I said, “That's what
I'm gonna do.” It wasn't like a big, traumatic decision
or anything, it was just I saw a boat. I had no idea there were boats
like that. I didn't know there were boats on rivers, and I was gonna
do it. So I went down to the boat, and it just so happened that I knew
the guy driving the boat. (chuckles) The guy was working for arta, my
first employer, [American River Touring Association] and he was way generous.
He thought it was great. I was out of the Marine Corps, and he just goes,
“Okay! You want a trip?” (chuckles) I'm just like, “Well,
ah, yeah!” It was that easy. So he gave me directions on how to
find the boss. “You must go to the boss.” So I set out hitchhiking
from Havasu Canyon to Oakland, California, where the most honorable boss
was. And he was—I'll never forget it—1016 Jackson Street,
downtown Oakland, California. And I couldn't understand how the
hell Oakland, California could relate to the Grand Canyon. Why was I going
to Oakland, California, to get into the Grand Canyon?! You know? So I
hitchhiked to Oakland and here I am hitchhiking downtown Oakland, (chuckles)
and I was going, “I can't believe this!” And they had
their office in like this rundown, ramshackle part of the city of Oakland,
and I was not used to being in big cities. We all have to pay a price,
[though], so that's what happened.
Steiger: And who was the boatman?
Hendrick: The boatman? His name was Steve Dupuis. I met him in California—when
I was in the Marine Corps, I met him.
Steiger: Let's back up. Tell me just a little bit more about your
family. What was your dad like? What was your mom…
Hendrick: My family. My greatest remembrance of my dad was the day we
went out to hunt pheasants, and I was really young—must have been
around seven, I think, and I had a 4.10 shot gun. My mom would always
rant and rave about how it was too dangerous for me to be running around
with this shotgun. So this is the thing I remember: My dad had a few nips
of Irish whiskey, he was part American Indian, he was mostly Irish. He
liked whiskey. He always had a drink of Irish whiskey on the way to pheasant
hunting. So we're in a 1949 Mercury, which is an awesome ride—this
car was really fun. I remember, seven years old, I'm holding this
4.10 shotgun, scared to death that my father would see me do something
wrong besides what he had taught me on how to handle the shotgun. I was
supposed to hold it a certain way, it couldn't be loaded, the safety….
Dah, dah, dah, dah. Everything had to be just right, or he'd speak.
He'd never ever hit me or touch me like that, but he would have
to speak in a tone of voice which would scare me. So I didn't want
to be scared, so I tried to handle the shotgun perfectly, and I'm
trying the best I can. He says, “Step out of the car now, with your
shotgun, Jimmy.” And I open the door, and I start to step out, and
here's my father, who's had maybe a few more nips of whiskey
than he should have, grabbing his shotgun and blows a hole the size of…(chuckles)
the hole in Upset, through the roof of the '49 Merc, and I'm
goin' (look of astonishment)…. And I realized right then that
maybe authority figures and adults and maybe everyone else doesn't
always know what's best for you. He's a well-meaning gentleman,
but he just blew a hole through the roof. That could have been my head
or his foot. So I then began to doubt authority, I think, at an early
age. But my father wasn't really an authoritarian figure—he
was just a happy-go-lucky guy who lived in a small town and owned very
small businesses. And if it wasn't for the Native Americans who
came through to buy stuff, they would have all starved.
Steiger: That was in South Dakota?
Hendrick: South Dakota, yeah. And they were just really cool people: they
were farmers, they were hard workers.
I'll tell you one more story: My father took in pheasant hunters,
and he'd take 'em out hunting. So I guess you could say, in
a funny way he was a hunting guide. No offense to bird hunters, but I
see hunting guides where I live now [Alaska] that hunt grizzly bears,
and it's hard to equate being a hunting guide on a pheasant. When
you're used to hunting moose and grizzly bears, it's hard
to, (in deep, brave voice) “Let's go hunt a pheasant!”
It's like, it's just a little bird. I mean…
I forgot what I was going to tell you. Oh shoot! Pheasant hunting….
Oh, my dad goes…. See, all these pheasant hunters get in line and
walk across a field. So they're walking across this field, and this
guy walks up to my father and he gives him the keys to his pickup and
he goes, “Barney, here's your keys.” And Barney turns
bright red, “What the hell are you doing with my truck keys?!”
And the guy starts to tremble, you know. Barney says, “How's
anyone supposed to use the truck if the keys aren't in it?”
He goes, “Jimmy, take these keys back and put 'em in the truck!”
And the poor guy's totally confused. My dad's furious. He's
like, “What if one of my neighbors, what if one of my family members
needed that truck?!”…. So it was a different world than we
live in now. So anyway…
I had a mother. (laughter) She's French-Canadian Catholic—very,
very into the religion thing, which I totally rebelled against. Her firmest
purpose in life, once she saw me pop out of the womb, was I become a priest.
She failed miserably, and she's always been unhappy about that.
She blames me. But a priest's life was not for me.
***
We used to call him “Jimi Hendrix” and Jimmy kind of encouraged
that. It fit the bill. He didn't play guitar, was not a rock star,
wasn't even black, but he was out there; one of quite a few wild
men and women who were on the scene through the '70s and early '80s.
He was—and probably still is— one of those people who until
you did a trip with him seemed pretty flamboyant and full of himself;
but after you got to know him became a friend for life, somebody you'd
never forget and would always be glad you'd known. He started with
arta, worked in Idaho; went to Africa with sobek; wormed his way into
one of the sweetest little companies ever: Wilderness World; and after
that sold ended up with Expeditions for a few years before migrating north
to Alaska, where he resides today, running dog races in his spare time
and otherwise keeping busy with an outdoor gear store “Denali Mountain
Works” and a river company
Too-loo-uk River Guides (P.O. Box 106, Denali, AK 99755 ~ akrivers.com
~ 907-683-1542).
***
I wonder if people join the military because they have a lot of confidence,
or they join the military because they don't. You know? I think
it's kind of a mix. I could have gone off on my own. I wanted to
go into a logging camp. I always wanted to do that, I wanted to be a logger.
So I told my parents when I was sixteen that I was going to go become
a logger immediately. My dad talked me out of it.
So I did…I just—it was crazy. My brothers were in Vietnam.
I had a brother in Vietnam at that time who wasn't doing well. And
I felt like…my uncle was in Iwo Jima, and he was a big-time part
of my youth. You know, as a boy I loved listening to my uncle tell me
stories about the old Marine Corps of the World War II era. Those people
were bad. They would be on these islands, a hundred days in a row, under
intense fire from the Japanese. I mean, everybody knows about the Marine
Corps in World War II. Here was my dad's brother, telling me stories
about it, and geez, it's like other people in my family always seemed
to end up in the Marine Corps. So it was kind of…it was kind of
like an adventure, but when I got into the Marine Corps I realized that
I was overwhelmed by it, and I couldn't imagine—even imagine.
And I would try, because I can certainly, always imagine awesome sex acts
with beautiful women—things like that. Or imagine cold swimming
pools on a hot day. You know, imagine jumping out of an airplane with
a parachute when you're flying in one. But not…I had no idea
that people could be so hard on each other.
Steiger: As people were in that situation?
Hendrick: As in the Marine Corps. It was like “Holy Toledo!”
And I kept my mouth shut, but whenever I'd see somebody be abused,
you know, or obviously an injustice is being done to a fellow boot in
boot camp, or a Marine later in my career as a Marine, I would want to
interject and stop them from doing whatever they were doing to this person,
but then you wouldn't be with the rest of the group, you know. So
I learned how to live in a group, how to become controlled, and all these
horrific things—I mean, things that I was totally unrespectful of…
I thought probably the war in Vietnam was a political mistake, and that
militarily the military couldn't function there as they did in other
wars, because the political mess it was in. So I knew that I wasn't….
I took the attitude as a seventeen-year-old growing into an eighteen-year-old,
that, “Hey, this is all too much for me.” You know? All I
know is that my two brothers are in the military. I just know if I'm
going to go on with my life, I've got to get this military thing
behind me. Let's just knock it out, you know? Let's just do
the job, get it done, and go on and become the President or whatever.
So I just wanted to get through the damned thing. I don't know.
I don't know, Lew. Gee willikers, what was I thinking?!…
I was in a helicopter squadron in a Marine Corps air wing. This is in
California, close to San Clemente, where Nixon had his home in California.
So he would land in Air Force One, we'd put him in our helicopters
and we'd fly him and support his group to San Clemente. I'd
been reading this book, it was by this guy Jerry Rubin, and it was pretty
ridiculous, but there was this thing that he talked about that I liked
where this guy Mario Something went up to Berkeley and started the free
speech movement by writing an obscene word on a wall, “‘Blank'
War!” He just didn't like war, he thought war was a stupid
concept. So that was what he wrote on a wall at UC Berkeley, and it became
this big deal…. So I had that on my mind, and I knew Nixon was coming.
Well, I was very insulted, because these big airplanes came in, full of
caskets out of Vietnam, through Hawaii, and into our thing, and they were
unloading these caskets and I was just moved emotionally. I thought, “This
is too intense. Each one of those boxes these guys are moving around have
a man in 'em. Each one of them have somebody's father or brother
in each box.” I was imagining how many people were affected by that
box? How many people did that one box make sad, for how many years? And
I thought, “Who's responsible for this?” You know, who
is responsible for all of this sadness? Well, all of a sudden, all these
officers are running around, they're all hyped up, “Air Force
One is coming in, Secret Service are coming in. Let's go, move this
mess!” You know? It's like, these are dead Marines. “Move
this mess.” So (swoop) we move 'em all out of the way, and
they go, “Air Force One is coming!” So while everybody's
running around, I go and I put on this guy's uniform that doesn't
exist, and I grab this red paint, and we climb up onto this tower and
we write, “Fuck War!” in giant letters on the tower. And we
run down the tower, and out to our job site, and look up, and that's
right where Nixon's gonna be, and he could see it, for sure. We
were just kids, we were like eighteen-year-olds and we're like,
“Uh-oh, we're gonna get in trouble.” So we go back to
work. The next thing I know, I'm standing there in this line and
here comes the Secret Service guys. You know, they're all landing
in their jets, and Air Force One comes in. The Secret Service guys come
down, and here we are, Marines with our weapons, and they come and search
us, and they clear our weapons to make sure we have no rounds in them,
and then make sure we have no weapons or other grenades or anything like
that. And then they walk away and I'm thinking, “Well, what
if the assassins come? What'll I do? Hit 'em with the end
of my rifle?” It's like, “This is ridiculous, man!”
So then Nixon came and he was cute, he was a crack-up. What a guy! He
liked Marines, and he'd come down and he'd pat us on the head
and shake our hands and slap you on the back, you know? And then there
was Kissinger and Agnew and the whole gang. Mrs. Kissinger was very nice,
long legs, very good-looking. She was delightful. The rest of them, ugly.
Ugly old men. None of the Marines looked at those guys and thought, “Oh
boy, there's our leaders.” We looked at them and went, “God
help us!” It was scary.
Steiger: Did they ever find out who wrote “Fuck War” up on
the tower?
Hendrick: No, they didn't. They did not find out, because we weren't
dummies.
Steiger: They probably noticed that, though.
Hendrick: They definitely noticed it. They hustled old Dick into the cars
and off to the helicopter pretty fast. Before you could say, “Jack
Robinson,” they had a big old sandblaster up there just (imitates
sound of sand blaster) into the walls of the big water tank there. It
was pretty wild.
***
The first time I ran the Grand Canyon, I flipped at House Rock Rapids,
so I think that was good to be humbled from the beginning.
Steiger: The very first time you flipped in House Rock?! What kind of
boat was that?
Hendrick: Or was that my second trip? (chuckles) It was a snout rig, one
of those arta snout rigs, those big, heavy…. It wasn't a snout
rig, actually, it was a flat tube rig, but it was still a twenty-two-foot
boat, a huge thing, must have weighed tons. Then they got better boats,
they modernized and went to the snout boat, like people still have the
snout boats down there today. But I'll never forget…. I thought
the boat was big enough, because after running Idaho rivers, I thought
it was pretty good, and I'd run the Middle Fork and the Selway,
so I figured the Grand Canyon couldn't be that hard. And I saw that
big hole down there at the bottom left of House Rock, and I figured since
the boat I was rowing was so big—it could run that hole, but it
didn't have a chance and so I turned over. A very good feeling.
I just remember being under the boat and under the water, the power of
that river was incredible. And I'll never forget it, the smell,
the feel, of being under the river. It was just that feeling, and only
the Colorado River has that. Every river that I have flipped in and swam
in the deep water and through rapids on purpose, has its own taste, its
own smell, its own feel, and its own visual stimulations too: you know,
the sensations of seeing the color of the water when you're underwater.
Ever since that flip, every time like I'll go swimming in the Colorado
River and just go underwater, just take a bath and go underwater, I always
have that same feeling and sensation in that same river. It all goes right
back to that first flip.
I remember David Lowry a boatman for arta, he was on the boat. I just
remember him laughing.
Steiger: He was riding with you?
Hendrick: Yeah.
Steiger: What, was he supposed to be training you or something?
Hendrick: Well, we were like both just starting out, so they just gave
us a boat. We didn't have commercial clients the first trip. I did
the second trip. Third trip I ever did in the Canyon I had commercial
clients. Like the Middle Fork of the Salmon, first trip, I had a full
complement of commercial clients. A lot of rivers in those days you could
just jump on and you either could make it, or you couldn't. Now
you have to take all these little tests and have so many trips. (chuckles)
Steiger: Yeah, boating in the nineties. When was that thing?
Hendrick: I was just thinking of a trip in the fall of 1972, an arta commercial
trip. Who the heck was on that thing? Dave Lowry…. This is interesting,
let me think back to that. Who the heck was on that old arta crew? It
was Don Briggs, of course, the guy we were talking about last night. Louise
Hoaglund…Louise Teal who was then Louise Hoaglund, her husband Roger
was on the crew. Then there was some fellas who don't run anymore.
I can't even remember…his name was Gary Something. He was
a guy from California. Steve Dupuis from California. A lot of these guys
never hung around for a long time—probably 'cause their backs
were so sore from rowing those big boats.
Steiger: Those snout boats…
Hendrick: Not a snout boat. They got snout boats later and considered
that real modernization.
Steiger: You hit that hole straight?
Hendrick: Yeah, I went down there, straight down the left side. But remember,
House Rock was different in the early seventies. It was a different rapid.
I don't know, maybe a big old alluvial thing came in on the right
out of the canyon and pinched it off a little more or something, I don't
know, but it was a little different.
Steiger: It was gnarlier, wasn't it?
Hendrick: It was gnarlier.
Steiger: How many times have you flipped on the river on Grand? Or flipped
all together?
Hendrick: Well, in Grand Canyon, I'll try to simplify it. I think
in private trips I never flipped a raft on a private trip in Grand Canyon,
but I've gone out of my kayak, had my kayak stuck in holes and swam
out of the hole while the boat's stuck in the hole. That happened
to me in House Rock in the same hole, left side, 1975. I'll always
remember that first flip, so I wanted to just kind of not really mock
the river, but just show her that I wasn't terrified of that bottom
left hole, and so I did a really wild run, and I'm really glad I
did it. I backpaddled against the left wall the whole way, with just kind
of sitting up very erect and just doing a real deliberate backpaddle stroke.
So I backpaddled all the way into that hole, then dropped into it. And
then I did like this endo and came up. I went to throw my brace, and I
went from a low brace to a high brace immediately. I just cranked my right
shoulder big-time. So I swam out of the hole, and if it was separated
or trying to separate, this shoulder, I know that just being in the water
must have fixed it, because by the time I swam to shore, I don't
even remember the shoulder pain. All I remember is lookin' back
and seein' my boat still stuck in the hole.
Steiger: Wow.
Hendrick: And so me and Dick Hertzler, this guy from Prescott College—you
know him, you know of him. We were sitting there and watching it, and
he rolled up and smoked two drum cigarettes while we were watching the
boat.
Steiger: It sat in that hole.
Hendrick: It sat in that hole that long. And then it spit out just as
the rest of the kayakers on our trip showed up. It was really kind of
a nice coincidence that they came paddling up and I was able to yell at
them and signal to them (laughs), “There's my boat.”
It spit out of the hole, was takin' off downriver, I'm sittin'
on shore.
Steiger: Did Hertzler have a raft, or…
Hendrick: Hertzler was kayaking too.
Steiger: You guys were going to go rescue your boat?
Hendrick: No, he was too busy doin' what he was doin'—watching.
(chuckles) He was good at that.
Steiger: He didn't care.
Hendrick: No, he was havin' too much fun. There were other boaters
out there. We knew they could take care of it.
***
Steiger: So suffice it to say, it's not a big deal to be flipping—a
big old traumatic thing.
Hendrick: No. The way the Wilderness World rig was, with the really low,
deep-into-the-tube frame, to where the boxes and all your objects were,
our whole goal was to keep all the boxes and all the objects below or
at the tube level. So you could have an upside-down boat rippin'
down through Crystal and you could even swim under it, and chances are
you're not gonna hit anything except the oar locks. Chances are,
things won't get wet. It's really an awesome design. Old Vladimir
[Kovalik] set up that rig so you could do that.
Steiger: There was that, and also the life-lines were really good on his
boats—on those Avons I remember—maybe not so good on the Havasus.
But they were a pretty bomber rig.
Hendrick: Yeah, and you could, you know, people make such a big deal of
flippin', 'cause the boats they have, if they flip the boats
they have, they really are in deep trouble, 'cause a lot of the
boats shouldn't be turned over…
Steiger: So I guess it's not being afraid of flippin' that
kind of freed you up to be so experimental with all these other runs that
you used to do. I mean, you're probably known for doin' unusual
runs—not the tried-and-true, safe things. You know, like the right
in Hance and…
Hendrick: I think that a lot of it had to do with Vladimir's optimism
and his positive attitude and the fact that when I was rowin' for
Wilderness World, specifically, I could relax and know that as trip leader,
if I decide to run a certain route, I got all the rest of the crew backin'
me up. All the rest of the crew is there in like what we called—to
inject a little bit of fun into what could be an overly-serious event—is
we're there to protect each other and we're on “safety
alert,” which means that someone's doin' a run that
isn't your normal run, and the likelihood of turnin' over
or some other reason, puttin' someone in the water, the likelihood
has risen, so everyone gets ready to rescue that person's boat.
And it's kinda fun…but everyone knows, anytime…. Yeah.
I just really have to say that Wilderness World was a big positive reason
why we could do things. I mean, he [Vladimir Kovalik] gave us a lot of
support. We never ran in fear down there, we never thought, “Well,
when we get back, we have to explain everything to the boss.” It
wasn't like that at all. It was a very trusted, positive relationship
with him. And we never had any fear of something going wrong and having
to explain it to him. There was no fear of that. We knew that if something
actually did ever go wrong—and that, to us, meant someone got hurt—that
he would know that it was totally an accident or fluke. We ran as safe
a trips as anybody.
Steiger: What gets me is you have this reputation. I mean, on the one
hand, you're one of the wildest guys around, and one of the wilder,
more fearless boaters that ever ran down there commercially. But on the
other hand, what everybody remembers about you—and me too, included—is
how you used to drill that whole safety thing. I mean, there's a
lot of guys where it's like, if you talk about that, you're
bein' a wienie. You know, you're not supposed to get into…just
'cause you're scared or somethin'. But I remember the
trips I ran with you where you were always talkin' that up. “Now
God damn it, let's have everybody tight.” You made sure that
the whole crew was really aware that it was a team sport, and they're
supposed to be together. Where the heck did you come up with all of that?
Hendrick: Where'd I pick that up?
Steiger: Yeah.
Hendrick: I picked that up because—without naming other companies
that I've been around and worked for—well, I would say even
more exactly is the experience of you come around a corner and you're
the first person on your trip on the river, so you're the lead boat,
and you come around the corner and there's some guy who's
flipped from another company, or a private trip, and he's like he's
in chaos. And you go, “Where's the rest of your trip?! How
come there's just you and this other boat right there downriver?”
Or, “How come there's only you here?” And he'll
say, “Well, the other guys are downriver.” “You mean
to tell me that the other people on your trip are gone, they're
already downriver, and they're not even here to help you?! I mean,
what, you guys are just all on your own?” And they totally act like
it's normal, “Well, yeah.” There were a lot of people
runnin' down there who were like, they're on their own trip.
As though each boat is its own little entity, you know. I found that to
be…my attitude was the lead boat should be able to help the second
boat, the second boat should help the third boat, and right on down the
line, 'cause anything can happen at any time. And I know a lot of
times people thought, you know, that was kinda wimpy…(chuckles)
It's a selfish thing, because I don't like worryin'.
***
Steiger: What was your recollection of 1983, where the water came up and
the speed run passed you?
Hendrick: That was the high-water trip. When they dropped our first note,
we were at Nankoweap. This is like, if you look at the positioning that
we were in, you know, we were pretty lucky. Okay, our first note's
at Nankoweap, “Camp high, be safe. Water's comin' up
to 60,000 tonight.” “Sixty thousand?! Surely they jest!”
I said. And as we moved the kitchen about three times, it was great to
watch the river, like the kitchens, you know, our traditional campsites,
to watch them go underwater. That was really cool, but it unnerved us
a little bit. But then just to jump ahead, the water came down at 220
Mile. We take out at Diamond Creek—this was a traditional Sierra
Club chartered Wilderness World trip. We take out at Diamond Creek, so
at 220 Mile when we woke up, the boats were high and dry. I mean, like
they were a long way from the water.
Steiger: So you guys got the whole peak?
Hendrick: We got the whole peak. It was something that was really troubling
my ego, was that I wanted to know that no one, no one was on the river
at higher water than me. That I was on the river at the highest water.
And so knowing that the water was now going down made the take-out welcome.
But I was very disturbed about that. I was really concerned that I was
gonna take out, and the next day the water would come up even higher,
and then I would have missed it. So I was delighted that the water came
down. I think the thing that I remember most, personally, that worried
me, was we were camped at Unkar on the right. There used to be a really
nice camp right on the right above Unkar, above all the ruins and stuff…but
the place was trashed really bad by that flash flood down that little
side canyon there, which hopefully still doesn't have a name. So
we were at that camp, and I remember hearing Unkar just…. You know,
you can usually be around Unkar or Cardenas, and sometimes you might hear
it, but it's never menacing. But you could hear like this just,
“Mawr,” this roar, you know. The helicopters came over and
dropped another note, just before dark. Another note came in and this
was, “It's comin' up.” Seventy [thousand cfs],
or was it eighty?…. It was awesome. It was incredibly awesome.
Steiger: Was it scary?
Hendrick: Yeah, it was the night before. Before we entered Unkar, there
was a real feeling of dread that I had that night. I didn't sleep
well that night, and I just had this immense feeling of responsibility,
'cause I had no idea what it would be like. I was tryin' to
imagine Hance and Sockdolager. I was like, “What will Sockdolager
be like? What kind of constriction will be in there?” And you know,
what I always think of, is I think of the worst case scenario. What's
the worst thing that could possibly happen? Worst thing that can possibly
happen is a lone swimmer is separated from the rest of the trip.
Steiger: Out in front.
Hendrick: And what kind of shit is that person gonna swim into? What does
below Sockdolager look like? What does the right wall in Hance look like?
What will happen? What kind of eddies are there? Are there eddies? I've
already noticed that upriver there were eddies that you would see, a person
could swim into, and you couldn't get in there in a boat, and you'd
go by 'em, and you couldn't pull in for maybe another two,
three miles. So by the time you pulled in, that person could have already
been lost. You know? So that was an awesome feeling, and I considered
helicoptering everyone out at Unkar.
Steiger: You were actually already thinkin' about it?
Hendrick: Oh yeah. I considered hikin' everyone out at Red Canyon
out of Hance. And then I considered Phantom…. But once we got through
Unkar and we ran Nevills…Nevills was tremendously powerful, like
the surges and everything, it was just so awesome. There's also
another side of me that didn't want to deny this experience to these
people. We had people like Billy Pritchett and the doctor and Dirk Pratley's
mother, Margaret. I mean, here's Margaret Pratley, a middle-later-aged
woman who's like…. You know, she's not Jane of “Tarzan
and Jane” fame, she's an average woman of America today, and
she's like totally positive attitude, “Let's go!”
You know, “I'm responsible for my own life! Don't deny
me this opportunity! It's not just because I paid for this trip.
You're my friend now, you know me, how can you deny me this?”
That was her attitude.
Steiger: Who was Billy Pritchett?
Hendrick: Billy Pritchett was a young man who organized the rest of the
clients into expressing exactly the same thing Margaret was trying to.
“We're your friends now, we've known you for four or
five days. We thought you liked us. We thought you were sincere in the
way you related to us. Now you're gonna deny us this experience.
That's not our friend. That's just someone who we bought a
trip from—you don't really care.” And they got me by
the heartstrings with that line. It just totally overwhelmed me. I said,
“Okay, you guys are goin'!” And three of 'em were
minors. So, you know, not to say these rapids weren't awesome, but
they were kind of washed out, and they were less intimidating than I thought
they would be. So I got a little cocky then. I thought, “Well, then
I can handle the other stuff.” But the thing is, there were a lot
of things about the flood that were easier, but the repercussions of something
going wrong during the flood were massive. And again, I get back to those
eddies that you're not gonna get to people. If you turn a boat over,
the boat may end up in one of those eddies. You're not gonna get
to it, forget it. And the water was cold. So just the same old worries
we always have, concern for our clients' safety, magnified by 100,000
cfs…
[Then we get to Phantom Ranch and the ranger there tells] me not to go
on. He says, “You need to hike your people up Pipe Springs.”
Steiger: Oh, he did? He said, “The trip's over.”
Hendrick: Well, he said, “The river's closed…. Crystal
Rapid's closed. I'm not saying I'm gonna arrest you
if you don't, but it's recommended, and I'm asking you
to hike your people out and cancel the trip, and wait for evacuation”
and all this. That's when three teenagers…. See, I told these
kids on my trip earlier, I said, “When we pass Phantom Ranch, as
an ex-Marine, I always stand on my cooler and salute the flag.”
Right? You've seen me do that? Maybe not. But always when I float
by Phantom Ranch, I stand on my cooler and salute the flag at Phantom
Ranch. That's a tradition. So I told the kids, “When we go
by Phantom Ranch, you'd better do that, everyone better salute the
flag. When you see Old Glory in those cottonwoods, I want to see some
respect out of you people.” And they remembered that, because while
I was at Phantom Ranch, arguing with the ranger, the ranger's advising
me to hike all the people out…. The ranger says, “There's
been a fatality at Crystal, there's major problems down there, Crystal
Rapid is closed.”
Steiger: “Hike this trip out.”
Hendrick: “This trip should be canceled.” They didn't
say adamantly, “You have to,” they just said, “It should
be, and we recommend you hike your people out, and you wait for evacuation.”
And so my question was, “Are there other people above us?”
“Oh, no, only one or two trips.” And it turned out there were
only one or two trips that they let leave the Ferry. One was Kyle [Kovalik]
and Brad [Dimock] and Helen [Yard] and Fritz [Carol Fritzinger], alone
on that Caligari [an 18-foot raft similar to an Avon Spirit]. And the
other trip was the Expeditions trip, Dick McCallum confronting them at
Lees Ferry and saying, “No way, we're going!” And that's
the one Dan and Brian [Dierker] were on. And they got their taste of high
water—although not as much as us! But they got some.
But what I want to tell you is: We pulled up to Crystal…. Well,
wait, I want to get back to the story.
Steiger: How did you decide that you were going on?
Hendrick: Well, I'll get to that, but I want to tell you this really
funny thing. The ranger says…. And then he goes stomping off, from
the ranger station where the flag is flying…. He was pretty irritated,
and he stomped away, very frustrated.
Steiger: Because you told him, “No, we're not gonna…”
Hendrick: I told him I would consider it, but that I wouldn't be
hounded into making a decision, and that if he wished to represent the
Park Service, maybe he would be wiser to put the Superintendent on the
phone with me.
Steiger: The Superintendent?
Hendrick: Yeah. “Maybe I should go right to the top,” I said.
“You know, as a Marine aviator, I think that I wouldn't waste
time with you as a lance corporal. I want to see the colonel. And I'm
not gonna take any verbal abuse from you. So you either be quiet or get
your superiors here to speak.”
Steiger: As a Marine aviator?
Hendrick: Well, as a member of the Third Marine Air Wing. I flew in helicopters,
I may not have flown them, but…
Anyway, so the kids were there at Phantom Ranch, the ranger walks away,
and unbeknownst to me, the kids strike the colors. They take down Old
Glory, because they know…
Steiger: Oh my God! Teenagers!
Hendrick: Two fourteen-year-olds and a sixteen-year-old on the trip, and
they strike the colors, and they folded her up applicably, they did a
good job. And I didn't know this, and this is a huge flag.
Steiger: They're doin' this why? Just because they don't
want to salute?
Hendrick: They think I'm mad at the ranger, and they therefore don't
feel the Park Service is worthy of flyin' Old Glory at their ranger
station, so they pulled the colors down and folded 'em up, correctly,
in respect to the flag, and stored it on the boat—unbeknownst to
me. Big flag, property of nps.
Steiger: They struck the colors and swiped 'em, huh? (laughs)
Hendrick: Yes. Unbeknownst to me, three teenagers are stealing federal
property at Phantom Ranch, under my nose.
Steiger: And stowing it away on your boat.
Hendrick: Right. So I stomp back to the boat and I tell the people, “This
is not a good situation. The first thing we need to do is remove ourselves
from the physical touch of these rangers.” So we loaded the boats
and we took off. And the ranger's doing this scene (gestures) as
we float by. He's very upset. So we float down to Pipe Springs,
because I get a pang of paranoia that I might be in trouble with the Park.
You see now, the big trip, ever since Unkar, has been, “As trip
leader you're runnin' lead boat. You pull over, is anyone
else gonna make the pull-in?” Maybe, maybe not. You never hardly
on that trip saw every boat make the pull-in. So I was pretty tense about
this one. I was getting very graphic, using tense body language, “Come
on, try harder!” And everybody pulled over at Pipe Springs, except
the baggage boatman…. But he had no clients, so, “Bye-bye!”
And I saw him disappear in those big rollers below Pipe Springs. I just
figured, well if he flips and drowns, he's only a baggage boatman.
But I knew somehow he'd be okay. So my first responsibility was
to the paying, commercial, Sierra Club charter clients. So they're
all in there at Pipe Springs. I tell 'em, “Look, I really
would appreciate it if each and every one of you good people would beat
feet to the South Rim and disappear. Go. Go home. This is too much stress
on me and the crew, and frankly, we just can't take it.” So
this doctor on the trip, a wonderful woman in her mid-forties, a physician,
she stands up and she says—in all respect to the Sierra Club trip
leader who was this other person who was kind of dealing with their own
fears at the time, she says—“I think I speak for the rest
of the trip that none of us want to leave.” And so she was very
professional and polite and she said, “Can we keep going? We'd
really like to stick it out with you.” And I said, “People,
if you want to go on, then you're goin' on. I'm not
gonna make anyone leave, although I wish everyone would.” So they
all just got on the boats. Here's our crew, standing on shore, the
boats are tied up, and now…
Steiger: So I just want to get this straight and make sure I've
got it. Basically the ranger's telling you, “Trip's
over, you guys are outta here,” and you say, “Sorry, I'm
not going to be railroaded into this. We'll just go downstream and
think about it.”
Hendrick: Exactly.
Steiger: And then you put it to the people, and they don't want
to go.
Hendrick: I put it to the people, but when I first put it to the people,
it was like I want them to leave. I made it clear to them that I want
them to leave, that I personally do not want to be this mentally overwhelmed
with responsibility for people's lives, and this was beyond what
we're being paid for, and they should all leave…
But I wanted to tell you about this thing with Kim Crumbo [ex-nps ranger].
The next day I pull into Crystal, and Crumbo's on shore there, he
says, “Let me see your lifejacket.” Now I'm waiting
for him to say, “You defied the ranger at Phantom, you're
outta here!” But he does say very subtly, something to the effect
of, “You've pissed some people off. And you'd better
be careful. And if I was you, I would get out of here as quick as you
can.” 'cause there were two helicopters in the air when we
were there. And one of them definitely was rangers, and he was implying
something, that “you need to get outta here.” You know, “As
a friend, if you hang out around here, you could be in trouble.”
So I go, “Thanks.” And he goes, “But I can't let
you go on.” And I go, “Why?” And he goes, “Well,
look at this.” And he's holding up my lifejacket, and he says,
“I can see the color of your eyes through this thing. You can't
be serious! What are you doin' wearin' this?” “Hey,
that's my lifejacket.” “Well here, put mine on.”
Steiger: Wow!
Hendrick: He tried to make me wear his brand new Park Service jacket.
And you know, when I look back at that, I don't remember—I
believe I took it, but I may not have, or something. I think we swapped
life jackets. Or he got one from someone else or somethin', but
the point of the deal was, he wouldn't let me go on with the lifejacket
I had, which was my jacket I'd had for like (with mock tears) thirteen
years or something! It was totally worn out.
So okay, so now here's Kim Crumbo and the other Park Service people
are workin' in the helicopters and they're walkin' around
the area, and outta nowhere… these three teenagers walk up, and
they go “Tah-dah!” and they hold up the flag! And they're
all proud, and everybody's written on it!
Steiger: Oh my God!
|
Hendrick: Everybody's
written on it…. The last thing I said to the people when we pushed
off at Pipe Springs was…. They were so cute, because they all went
down and got on the boats, and the whole crew is standing on shore. We're
on shore and the people on the boats, and they're going, “Come
on, let's go!” You know? And I'm lookin' at 'em
and they all go, “Speech, speech! Speech by the trip leader!”
You know, “Give us a moving speech,” someone yelled, or something.
I think it was Kimmy Kovalik—Vladimir's daughter was on the
trip and she said, “Yeah, Jimmy, give us a real spirit-rousing speech!”
So the place became dead quiet, and they're listening, and I just
looked at them and I said, “This might be dangerous.” And
we all got in the boats and we left. So we were there at Crystal, and
on top of the U.S. flag in the white part of the flag, it says in big
letters, “This Might Be Dangerous.” (laughter) And then there
were notes from every client on the flag. “Great way to go! We love
you!” and all this stuff, you know. And every one of them had signed
it. “We'll all go to prison together!” “One for
all and all for one!” you know. And just a great attitude, and it
was hilarious. But Crumbo goes, “What is that?! Is that the Phantom
Ranch flag that was reported stolen yesterday?! Get that out of my sight,
I don't see it!”
Steiger: Ah, so you guys camped below Phantom that night, before Crystal.
Hendrick: Yeah. I believe we camped on the left above Granite, or maybe….
You know, I'd have to think a minute where the hell did we camp—I
know we camped, because it was the next day, that they pulled out the
flag. Those kids were awesome, how they did that. That was just a really
funny thing.
Steiger: Well, now when you saw Kenton and those guys go by [Kenton Grua,
Rudi Petschek and Steve Reynolds in a single dory, setting the world speed
record through the Canyon], what did you think?
Hendrick: When I saw Kenton and those guys go by? Well, I thought it very
odd. I was like, “Where's the rest of the trip?” (chuckles)
I'm like, “Where is everyone?” I kept looking upriver,
wondering where the other trip members were, where the rest of their boats
were, because they were in a hurry, they didn't exactly explain
what was going on. It was unbeknownst to us that there was only one boat
in their trip.
Steiger: So you didn't figure out right away that they were doin'
a speed trip or anything.
Hendrick: Not at all, no. I thought it was a dory trip just cutting through
our trip. I thought it was very strange. It's like, “What's
your point? And where are the rest of your people? And why are two boatmen
together?” (laughs) “What is going on?” But I don't
actually recall, unlike the story Speed [see the Christa Sadler, Red Lake
Books publication There's This River], saying I said all these obscenities
and stuff. I don't actually recall, I don't remember being
unfurled about their presence at all like that.
Steiger: I forget where I got that. That must have been me embellishing
Kenton. I think he knew you were mad at him for passing you. It seemed
like what he said was that they passed you right at Hermit, and you guys
were already pulled out, and you were gettin' ready to run the rapid,
and they just kind of went through you.
Hendrick: Yeah, exactly.
Steiger: And you and those guys ran it right together.
Hendrick: Yeah.
Steiger: Was it big? Do you remember, was Hermit big?
Hendrick: It was big.
Steiger: Were you guys cheatin' it?
Hendrick: We were cheatin' it. That's the thing is, I don't
know what people are tellin' ya', but most of the stuff we
rowed away from. I mean, it was too big, it'd be ludicrous to row
into. I definitely know we cheated in Hermit. (pause) Heck yeah, cheat
it.
Steiger: So when Crumbo gave you this lifejacket, so then did you guys
walk everybody around Crystal?
Hendrick: Definitely. Yeah, we walked people around Crystal.
Steiger: But the run wasn't that hard?
Hendrick: The run wasn't that hard, and the run was funner than
hell, rowin' through the tammies.
Steiger: Not rowin' by that hole.
Hendrick: Rowing through trees, you know. Actually being concerned that
your boat might get stuck on a tree on the right side of Crystal is pretty
wild. The hole was so far away. I mean, it was a piece of cake. But you
know, it was, what, two days earlier that the person had died [during
a motor-rig flip]. The really remarkable thing was seeing the motor rigs,
the crunched-up motor rigs, moored and stuck here and there. They looked
like a grenade had gone off on them…. And it was wild to see those
motor rigs like that. Here we had the Sierra Club, little Sierra Club
oar-powered-loving trip. (adopting little old lady voice) “Those
motors are so bad!” And here's this little rowboat going by
at the biggest water, and this big motor rig totally destroyed and hanging
there, limp, as we thrusted our way down the river. You know? (laughs)
It was a lot of fun. High water was a gas, and it was fun because I got
to also play—the first time in my life I got to play like a big
brother kind of comforting role. We had my wife Debra, we had Howie Usher—these
are people I distinctly remember, and they will probably very much resent
me painting them in this picture—but we also had a little macho
kid named Bill Wasley. And these are three physically tough people. And
we also had the baggage boatman. His name escapes me right now, damn it.
Four of them were overwhelmed with concern for the clients, and just a
little bit of a lack of confidence. They were worried and they were scared,
and I would try to comfort them.
Steiger: They were new, right?
Hendrick: Yes. And it's like, “Come on, you guys are gonna
miss a few eddies.” And you know, like we pulled into Matkatamiba,
for instance, and three boats missed the eddy. (pow, pow) And then I'm
always the first in, so boom! I'm in there. Now to get out is about
a fifteen-minute endeavor, to get the heck back out. And so they've
already blown by. So I have this massive concern. I've got three
boatloads of clients now that missed the eddy and have blown off downriver,
and God only knows what's happening to 'em. So we had to abort
Matkat and pull out after 'em. And we leap-frogged, literally, down
the river like that. We'd try to pull into a camp or a lunch spot,
(chuckles) and a couple of boats would miss. We'd always end up
inevitably in some awkward place that we never intended to be….
But if we could all get over at the same place, fine, let's perform
our function there, because by God, we're all here at once, so let's
don't blow it. The only place everybody made it was Havasu. That
was the only place, it's pretty cool.
Man, it was exciting.
Steiger: Yeah. So how'd those people…. How was it at the end?
How'd they do?
Hendrick: The clients? I got a letter…. Julie and I were just at
Dirk Pratley's, visiting his infant and his wife, Fritz. He has
a letter from his mother about the trip, and she just goes on and on.
This letter was written years and years after the trip. She goes on and
on about, “This is the most wonderful thing that ever happened in
my life!”
Boselli: She had a whole photo album of it.
Hendrick: And you know, you can take it lightly, because we hear it all
the time.
Steiger: Oh no.
Hendrick: But it's true. I mean, to those people, it's probably
the biggest rush of their life, and one of mine too. I mean, it was incredible.
Steiger: Mine too.
Hendrick: As far as being guides, we want to give people an experience.
There's a real line as to—you gotta stick your neck out a
little bit, you gotta take a chance. You have to risk things—for
them too. And if it works out, they have a trip that is so vastly superior,
than they would with people…. Now, I don't want to point fingers,
but there was a company that flew out at the Little Colorado. There were
companies abandoning trips upriver of us, giving up and flying out. You
know? And to me, that’s not right…. You know, money can’t
buy it. And there’s nothing…lawyers and lawsuits and bureaucrats
and all these things shouldn’t scare the industry away from trying
to provide people with these kind of experiences.
Steiger: (whistles) That’s an amazing story.
Hendrick: What would happen today if the water came up to 100,000? The
Park would probably close the river.
Steiger: Most likely.
Hendrick: They sure might.
***
Steiger: You have to tell that story about when Jeff Behan fell up there.
That’s such an amazing story. I’ve never heard it from you,
but I heard it from Behan.
Hendrick: Well, interject if something sounds in collision there.
Steiger: I’ll just shut up and let you start. Just start from the
beginning.
Hendrick: Well, we were at the Ledges Camp, you know. We rowed down to
the Ledges Camp and Jeff and one of the clients went off hiking downriver.
So I’m hanging out on the boats. I think it was Debra and her brother
and Geoff Gourley were cooking dinner that night. I was supposed to be
cookin’ dinner, but.…I volunteered to clean up, because no
one wanted to, and I’m the best guy to do dishes. So I was doin’
dishes, they were cookin’. We’re sittin’ there, and
the client who had gone hikin’ with Behan…. I had had one
beer, so I was sittin’ on the boat with that one beer, and I remember
I was just finishin’ it, and this fellah came running up, and he’s
screaming in a total panic sense, “His bones are sticking out! His
bones are sticking out!” We thought he was referring to Jeff, ’cause
they had gone off together. So I was waiting for this bad situation. So
he then ran up into the kitchen, and he was in a state of shock. So my
instructions to the crew immediately were, “Debbie, Gourley, treat
this man for shock, don’t leave him for a second, maintain his airway,
stay with him, just treat him for shock.” There’s no sense
dealing with him any longer, he has nothing to offer, he’s freaked.
He’s babbling now. He’s babbling, he’s totally out of
it. So then it’s like, “Okay, let’s go.” So I
know Howie’s a surfer, he can carry…. “Howie, grab the
backboard. You are the backboard man, bring the backboard.” We don’t
know where Jeff is, we don’t know where we’re going. But we
know every hike in there, so it’s a process of elimination. So then
it’s like I’m going with nothing, I’m going to be the
first person there, I’m going with nothing, I’m carrying nothing,
because I want my hands free to do cpr. I don’t need anything, I’m
going for cpr. So I take off runnin’. Then I yell back, “John
Markey, John Markey!” I have to run back again ’cause I know
I’m not quite organized. “Markey, get in your boat, right
now, row to Havasu, hike like a son-of-a-bitch to the phone. Call the
Park Service, tell them to get a helicopter into the Ledges Camp.”
Once again, I don’t know, maybe I’m totally blowing it. Maybe
he’s not injured bad enough. But the thing is, I’m coverin’
every base, right now, while I have a window of opportunity to do it.
So Markey rows away, there he goes.
Steiger: So you’d already started runnin’, and you stopped,
turned around…
Hendrick: I turned around and went back, ’cause I knew I wasn’t
ready. There were knots untied behind me. We need to get the 9-1-1 thing
moving. Markey’s the one. “Go, by yourself, bye-bye.”
He’s gone.
Okay, Chuck Carpenter’s there. “Chuck, get a bunch of ropes.
Get ropes. Come up with ropes, enough to belay a backboard.” Who
else was there? A couple of other people. “Bring up the first aid
stuff. All you other people…” Clients that are responding,
athletic clients that I think can be trusted to do something, “Come
with gear.” So all the first aid gear, I said, “I don’t
care what it is, everything we have, bring to the base of the wall. If
he’s up above that wall, just stop there and we’ll come down
and get it.” So I go (swish), I’m runnin’ now.
Steiger: Now you’re at the Ledges, and he went up to the falls there?
Hendrick: Yeah, the one downstream. And he’s up, all the way up—all
the way, as far as you can go, and then there’s that big Redwall,
sheer wall. Huge sheer wall of Redwall. And he’d been free climbing
up there, and what happened was, he wedged his right foot in a crack,
and his right hand peeled, the slab peeled. And so he went with the slab
and twisted. Anyway, compound fracture, dislocation, and ripped his foot
off, basically. So I don’t know any of this. All I know is there’s
bones sticking out. So actually, the ironic thing is, while I’m
running up there, looking for Jeff, I’m thinking, “Am I gonna
get in trouble? I’ve instigated a rescue, and I don’t even
know if I have an injury yet.” (chuckles) You know? Markey’s
gone to call the Park Service, he’s going to. There’s gonna
be a helicopter. And I just decided on that old defiant nature, I just
had this defiance like, “Hey, I gotta do what I think is right,”
and I’m already thinking of the repercussions, the arguments, the
criticisms. You know what I’m sayin’? And it made me understand
what doctors must go through, and emergency room personnel. It’s
like you make these decisions, and you already know someone’s gonna
criticize you. You know, you can’t win, basically. You can’t
please everybody. So I’m runnin’ like hell, I’m sweatin’,
and I’m doing these climbs that normally I don’t do, and when
I do do ’em…
Steiger: There’s a bunch of climbs, it’s hard to get where
he is.
Hendrick: There’s a bunch of climbs. Yeah, and I usually don’t
go up there. I’ve only been up there like once, and it scared me,
and I never went back. I’m just screamin’ up this wall.
Steiger: So this ain’t no “walk in the park”…
Hendrick: No, no, no, we don’t take clients up there. We never,
ever—this is the first time I’ve ever heard of a client even
goin’ up there…. And Behan made a mistake. He’s rowin’
a baggage boat, he’s got no business on his first trip, takin’
a client up there.
Steiger: Did he know where he was goin’ even?
Hendrick: No. He’s just walkin’ with a client. He was totally
innocent. I mean, he’s a good person, and a very good boatman, but
he made a mistake, he shouldn’t have taken a client up there. But
anyway, point bein’, I didn’t know where he was. So I’m
doin’ all this stuff and thinkin’, “I’m pretty
awesome!” But I’m scared to death. “Bones sticking out!”
plural! I’m waiting for this multiple fracture. So I get up there,
and I don’t see anybody. I’m like totally amiss. It’s
like, “What the hell is going on?” And I hear this groaning,
and I look behind this rock, and there’s Jeff laying there, and
his calf muscle is about the size of a fist, and his foot is sticking
out at an oblique angle, pointing to the outside. He’s in a lateral
position, and it’s way up his leg. The majority of the lower leg
bones are exposed, totally. There’s no tissue or whatsoever on ’em.
They’re just exposed bones.
Steiger: “Bones are sticking out.”
Hendrick: The bones are sticking out—to the ankle. But there is
no ankle, and there is no foot. The ankle and the foot are way up the
leg, attached to this muscle and tissue that’s as big as a fist,
and hard, and the foot’s sticking out.
To me, as I looked at it, I said in my mind, “Amputation, fractures,
he could die of shock. Work on the shock.” And there was no blood
loss, there is no flowing blood! You know?! And I can’t take credit
and say that it’s my great medical experience that did this for
me, but I simply felt his foot, and it was pure luck that I felt the dorsalis
pedis pounding.
Steiger: What’s the dorsalis pedis?
Hendrick: The vessel in the top of his foot had a massive pulsation to
it. I mean, I could palpate it and feel it. I had no intention, that wasn’t
even what I was looking for. I was just kind of in shock myself, feeling
his foot, to see if it was really attached to his leg, or was it just
stuck there. So I kind of grabbed his foot and pushed on it, and pulled
on it a little bit to see if it was literally amputated, and just a piece.
You know what I’m saying? But it was not only attached, I could
palpate the pulse. So I knew right then that his foot is still attached,
and it’s alive, it’s perfusing, I’ve got a pulse, in
this awkward, incredible position! That went by real fast as I went to
do my survey. Of course I first went to the foot, but then I got my head
together and went for the survey, and I went for his head. You know, does
he have any head injuries? No, no, he was coherent, he was conscious.
And I just gotta get over this one little hurdle right now and say that
Behan is one gutsy guy. He is a strong, brave, gutsy person. I was so
impressed with his demeanor. So he’s laying flat, his head’s
flat on the ground, and he won’t even let me palpate his spine.
You know, he won’t let me move his hips or anything. He’s
like, “Let me go, I’m okay, I’m okay! My head’s
fine, my neck’s fine. Look! Look at me move my neck!” And
he lifts his head up, and I go, “Stop it, Jeff! Okay, I believe
you!” And he’s going, “Look, my arms are okay.”
He’s flapping his arms. “Stop it!” He’s scaring
me. “Don’t try to get up!”
Steiger: So he’s already…
Hendrick: He’s already done a survey on himself.
Steiger: “It’s just my foot.”
Hendrick: Yeah, he goes, “My foot’s gone. I’ve looked.
My leg’s gone and my foot’s gone.” That’s what
he said, and he kept saying, over and over, “My foot’s gone.”
You know, like, “Do you see it anywhere?” And then I grabbed
his foot and I go, “Can you feel this?” And he goes, “Oh,
my God!” And he kind of sat up and looked, and from his point of
view, because now I’ve stuffed my shirt and some stuff under his
knee, trying to get a little bit of a view of his leg by elevating it
a little bit, so he feels the sensations in his foot, but as he lifts
up—because he’s flat on the ground—and as he lifts his
head up and looks down, all he sees is his bare bones, with no foot attached.
And then he drops his head in utter terror, I’m sure, and fights
the shock that must be just rollin’ over him. The pain and the fear
and the shock must be just rolling over him, and he’s just so strong,
he’s fighting it, you can see it in his face, you know, his fight.
He was fighting, man, it was so impressive. And like, “No, Jeff,
your foot is here, man. It’s still attached to your leg.”
And he’s like, “Don’t fool me, don’t mess with
me, Jimmy, I know it’s gone, I see it’s gone, my foot is gone.
You’ve gotta find it.” And I go, “Can you feel this?”
And he goes, “That feels like my foot!” He must have been
confused, you know. “Where is it?!” It’s like, “It’s
right here, it’s under your knee.” Then he starts slippin’,
’cause like he’d go, “Oh, ahhh, ahhh,” and then
he’d begin to cry a little bit, then he’d toughen up. He’d
just cowboy up and grit his teeth and fight. He wouldn’t weep and
he wouldn’t scream, but every now and then he’d have to just
yell. Every now and then he’d just go “Ahhhhhh!” So
I’m tellin’ him, “Okay, I got your foot, do you feel
it?” And he’s goin’, “Yeah, I do feel it.”
And I said, “This is your foot, man, and you have a pulse. And you
have color. Your foot’s pink. And your pulse is beating. You still
have a foot. And then he began to like disbelieve me, and he said, “I
know I don’t.” And he laid there. So the first people started
arriving. I don’t know who gets credit for this, but someone on
the crew—it might have been Debbie—told the clients, “Does
anyone have any pain killers or muscle relaxers?” So about a half-dozen
bottles of pain killers and muscle relaxers, all prescribed to someone
else—so this would have been all illegal—came to me from the
clients. So my first concern was, we’re gonna lose his foot because
of constriction of vessels. He’s going to lose it because of his
loss of perfusion, and that at all costs I’ve gotta save his foot…and
his life. But, you know, right now, let’s…
Steiger: So there wasn’t much blood?
Hendrick: There was very little blood. And his calf muscle was as hard
as a rock, so my feeling was that if this condition continued, and I’m
moving him, eventually we’re gonna pinch off those vessels and he’s
gonna lose his foot. So I made a major decision. There were two nurses
there, and one nurse said, “Don’t you dare give him drugs.”
And the other nurse said, “His life is more important than anything,
give him the drugs, or we may lose him.”
Steiger: So they knew that he had to have drugs, ’cause the pain
was gonna do him in.
Hendrick: He needed drugs, but there was no doctor there to prescribe
the drugs, and there was no doctor there who could legally give him the
drugs. So this one registered nurse—I won’t mention her name—was
a registered nurse in the state of Arizona, gave him the drugs. And she
said, “By God, I’m doing it.” Because I was scared.
I said, “If I give him these drugs and he dies, I’m breaking
the law.” We gave him Valium, and we gave him Percodans, and we
gave him Flexorils.
Steiger: All of ’em?
Hendrick: All of ’em, at once. I mean, “Swallow these.”
He was conscious, like, “Jeff, you’re gonna have to swallow.
You know, if you choke to death, we could lose you. Don’t puke.
Do you feel good enough to swallow these?” And he said, “I
know what you’re doin’, I want ’em, I want ’em.
Please! Pain killers, Jimmy, anything! Pain killers, anything man.”
I remember him saying that over and over, “Anything! Pain killers!
Anything! Pain killers! Please, please!” And then he’d scream,
“Ahhhhh.” So I gave him Percodans, Flexorils. And you know
Flexoril’s an amazing drug, because I was holding his calf muscle
with both of my hands, and I could feel the muscle relax to a softer form,
and his tissue mass literally started to slide down his lower leg a few
inches, and it would stretch and it slid, and it stretched and it slid,
and it got all relaxed, and I could move the foot around a little bit.
Now understand that the foot is attached to the entire ankle bone unit.
Steiger: Because the break is above that.
Hendrick: Right.
Steiger: Good thing!
Hendrick: Yes, it’s a perfect thing, for him, long-term healing.
So his foot and ankle are intact. The bones are simply broken out of the
joint.
Steiger: Right.
Hendrick: Fractured out of the joint, broken out, in a very nasty manner,
but he’s perfusing, the tissue’s still there, the bone’s
still there. Okay, so let’s get rollin’, let’s get him
the hell out of here. Plan A…
Steiger: And you’re way up this canyon.
Hendrick: We’re way the hell up there. Plan A is the helicopter’s
gonna get him out tonight. But as rescues go, time was consumed….
Luckily for me, because I would have died of guilt if the helicopter would
have been there, the helicopter couldn’t make it in that night,
there wasn’t enough daylight for him to even try to come in. So
he didn’t even come in until the next morning at first light. So
that was good for my psyche, because if he’d have been down there
waiting, and I couldn’t have produced Jeff by dark, I would have
felt very guilty.
So everyone, it was a real classic Wilderness World team effort. Not one
argument, not one complaint, just everybody injecting their skills and
their knowledge to make it work. …I had a lot of Betadine, and I
had a lot of sterile, clean dressings. So what I did is, I soaked the
exposed bones with Betadine—straight Betadine, undiluted. ’cause
my major concern at this point was bone infection. Bone infection [could]
do two things: rush up his blood system and kill him, or lose his leg.
So to avoid either of those, my main concern was infection. So I soak
his leg with Betadine, wrap it in Curlex.
Steiger: Well, wasn’t that soakin’ his leg—I heard that
somebody was sayin’, “Don’t touch it.”
Hendrick: Yeah, there was a nurse. The nurse who didn’t give him
the drugs was constantly giving me bad advice. She suggested I reduce
the fracture. I said, “I will not attempt to reduce the fracture.
If I reduce the fracture and lose perfusion, we still lose the leg.”
She argued against that. I told her, “I’m trip leader, I’ll
take responsibility. Please stay out of the way.” And then she started
doin’ the thing, “Don’t touch him at all, then. Don’t
touch it at all.” Well, I heard all kinds of advice, but not in
a negative…
Steiger: I heard that you cleaned it really good. You went ahead, so you
Betadined the bones…
Hendrick: Let me put it this way, I had it elevated straight out. I had
it elevated, and his knee was padded, so the Betadine was flowing over
the bones, and the Betadine was flowing in and out of the “holes”
if you will, or the surface of all the fracture of the foot and everything.
Any exposed thing, or any crevasse in there that I could squirt the Betadine
into it, I tried to just irrigate the entire thing with straight Betadine.
Then I did wash it with an irrigating solution…
Steiger: Is that a saline solution?
Hendrick: A saline solution. Then I Betadined it again, and then I wrapped
these three Curlexes. So what I did was, I wrapped the thing with dressings,
almost in a cast-like, except very loosely.
Steiger: Clean gauze.
Hendrick: Clean, sterile dressing, all over everything. And I used up
every one I had. And I used up all the Betadine I had, and I soaked it
all. So it was saturated with Betadine. And then I covered it up with
bandages—big triangulars and what-not.
Now, the whole thing of movin’ him was, now I’m puttin’
him on the backboard, and the whole thing of movin’ him was to have
that leg loose and relaxed, so as not to pinch off the circulation to
that poor, dangling foot. And then my concern was always circulation to
the end of the extremity, circulation to the toes. He had it! It was wonderful!
So I left his toes exposed so I could play with them.
Steiger: And they’re still…
Hendrick: No, they’re still mid-bone. They’re right where
a normal calf muscle would be now, is where his foot is. And the end of
his whole muscle system is about right here in the middle of the tib fib
[tibia and fibula]. So now the thing is, Howie got really funny. Howie’s
got this way he wanted to strap him on the backboard. You’re a horseman,
you know, “running ‘W’.”
Steiger: Yeah, keep it simple!
Hendrick: I said, “What are you guys complicating…”
That’s exactly what I was tellin’ ’em. “Why are
you guys making this so difficult?!” About four people are like
totally involved—Chuck Carpenter—and they’re climbers.
“I’m a climber!” “I’m a climber!”
“I’m a climber!” “Shut up! I’m used to pack
horses. We’re doing a ‘running ‘W.’” “What’s
that?” “It’s just this: voom, voom, voom.” “Oh!”
“See, wasn’t that easy?” And they’re like, “That
won’t work, Jimmy.” I said, “Yeah it will. I’ll
bet my life on it, ’cause I’m gonna hold onto it when we go
down the cliff.” So we put him in there, and the idea was to keep
his leg loose and flexible—again, not to pinch that artery.
Steiger: So there was no way in hell you guys were gonna get him out of
there if you didn’t have a backboard, huh?
Hendrick: If we had not had a backboard, we would have made one. Yeah,
you had to have had a backboard. There’s no way we could have got
him off the face of those cliffs without a backboard. Now I have to think,
he’s been given these drugs, so he could be drowsy on the pain killer.
Now I have to think about losing him from vomitus. You know, I’ve
gotta keep his airway open. So I drop him off the cliff, head first, and
so I think I’ve got that problem beat. If he starts to vomit, I
can just roll the backboard.
Steiger: So he’s on there. You don’t have to tie his head?
Well, did you have his head…
Hendrick: No, I had his head a little bit padded, but not much, ’cause
he wanted…. I was communicating with Jeff the whole time, and he
wanted to be able to move his head, he wanted to be able to look around.
He didn’t want to be strapped down by his head. I said, “Well,
I want your head loose, so if you feel like you’re going to vomit,
you can turn your head and vomit.” He’s an amazing man. He’d
have these waves of in-and-out, you know, where the pain would get to
him or whatever, and he’d begin to weep and just go out on me—not
unconscious, but out of communication. And then he could come back and
he would just struggle. What a fighter! It’s like, “I’m
okay, I’m still here. I’m still here, don’t leave me,
don’t leave me.” “I’m not gonna leave you, man.”
“What the hell are we doin’?” “We’re droppin’
you off the cliff.” “No, no, don’t! Bring the helicopter
in here. Don’t drop me off this cliff! No, no!” “Jeff,
we’re droppin’ you off the cliff and I’m goin’
with ya’.” He goes, “Okay, you won’t leave?”
I go, “No.” “Don’t leave me.” “I’m
not gonna leave ya’, I’m right here.” “Well, stay
here.” “No, I’m gonna go down by your foot. I’m
gonna ride down with your foot. Do you understand that?” And he’s
like, “Yeah, I do.” “You do, don’t you?”
“I do.” “This is incredible, you really do! Okay, I’m
going down on your foot. So I’ll be here. Alright, here we go.”
So we got Chuck Carpenter on one belay, and we got Howie and someone else
on another belay.
Steiger: And is it startin’ to get dark?
Hendrick: It is almost dark. It’s almost too dark to see. So they’re
totally cool people, man. Everyone was bein’ so cool. And everyone
else was down below, and there was total quiet so we could all hear. And
I’m like, “Slack…slack…okay, on belay. Let it
go.” And they’re just inching us down. So the deal was, I’m
not harnessed in, I’m not tied to anything. I’m holding onto
this strap that’s holding Jeff in, and my attitude was, “If
Jeff goes, I’m goin’.” And I know this is weird, but
it’s like, “If I’m going to kill Jeff Behan and he falls
out of this backboard, I’m goin’ with him. I’m not lettin’
this happen to him.” So with one hand I got Jeff’s strap that’s
holding him, and the other hand is free so I can push brush and cactus
away from his foot, because as the backboard’s goin’ down
the cliff, we’re encountering brush, we’re encountering barrel
cactus.
Steiger: So Behan’s upside down?
Hendrick: He’s upside down. And everything that comes near his foot,
I’d push away with my hand. My hand is like totally destroyed, it’s
all cut from cactus needles and brush and rock, ’cause I’m
like (crash, crash), totally into it. I’m not lettin’ anything
touch his foot. You know, I could say, “Whoa!” and they’d
stop and then I’d inch the backboard over to avoid something, and
it was a damned-long time. By the time we got him to the bottom, my hand
was totally torn to pieces, and I was like…. I can’t explain
it, I was totally exhausted. I was hardly able to stand up. We all got
the backboard, and in pitch black, we carried him back to camp, where
Mr. Geoff Gourley became the hero of the night, because I don’t
even remember what happened next. All I remember is wakin’ up in
the middle of the night, screamin’, “Where’s Jeff?!
Where’s Jeff?!” I passed out. (laughs) I was done, I was toasted.
Steiger: So Gourley…
Hendrick: Gourley missed the whole thing, ’cause he was down there
at the kitchen, organizing all that, and keepin’ the people there.
So he kind of missed the big, exciting parts. So he was Behan’s
best friend and his guest on the trip. And then he got to row his first
trip ever from then out—Geoff Gourley did. So Geoff took over and
stayed up with him all night. And so did the nurse.
Steiger: Did Behan sleep?
Hendrick: In and out, in and out. He did a lot of fist squeezing. He held
someone’s hand all night. He did a lot of squeezing of hands. He
did a lot of screaming, but he slept here and there, because I heard him
yell once, and that’s when I woke up. I felt really like I had failed
him, because I don’t even remember where or how I fell asleep. And
then I went over there, and he was asleep, but he looked dead, and I just
began to cry. And I guess it was like just finally emotions were coming
through. I just remember standing there, looking at Jeff, and I thought
he was dead. I just started crying, “I’m sorry Jeff, we let
you down.” And Gourley’s goin’, “He’s not
dead, he’s not dead, he’s sleeping!” So you know, I
was just bawling away, and I looked down at Jeff and sort of like slugged
him. Not slugged him, but whacked him in the side of the head, just wham!
And he wakes up. “Are you okay?!” And he goes, “Oh man,
you have no idea how much this hurts. It’s just really hurtin’.
You guys have gotta give me more drugs. You’ve gotta give me more
drugs.” And it’s like, “I can’t, you know. I can’t
give you any more drugs. It’s just too weird, Jeff. I don’t
know what the fuck’s gonna happen to you.” So I passed out
again. I wake up to the sound of the helicopter.
Steiger: Dawn, Markey made it.
Hendrick: Markey made it. You gotta give a lot of credit to John Markey,
the amount of time that he had. He was very efficient, because he’s
not a distance runner at all. He’s a boxer, he’s a real stout,
very thick-muscled person. He’s not a striding, long-muscled person.
He has a hard time running, but he made it up there in the dark, and he
called them in the night. And he did a good job. And because of him calling
’em, the helicopter was there at first light. And he deserves a
lot of credit for that, because of the lack of infection.
Now, when I went to the hospital to talk to Dr. Lewick right after I got
home, he said that he was astounded that there was no bone infection whatsoever.
He said, “A situation like this, out in the field, and as long as
he was in the field, ten out of ten times they’re gonna come in
with an amputation or an infection—inevitable. And how the hell
this guy didn’t get an infection, is just impressive to me.”
And he thanked me and stuff. I was all scared when I went in there, like
what’d I do wrong?
Steiger: Well, they say you’re not supposed to put Betadine on somethin’
straight, but…
Hendrick: They can say all they want. That’s all I had, was bottles
of Betadine.…irrigation solution, the saline. But it wasn’t
really mixed together.
Steiger: Well, we used to do it straight all the time, but lately they’ve
said, “It’s better to dilute it, because it kills the tissue.”
Hendrick: Yeah.
Steiger: But whatever you did, it obviously worked.
Hendrick: It was a tremendous rescue, though, man. It was really fun and
rewarding, and it worked out.
Steiger: Real challenging. A lot of opportunities to mess that one up.
Hendrick: Everybody was really awesome. You know, Howie? Think about what
Howie Usher did—with the backboard under his arm, he does the climb.
Steiger: He makes this climb.
Hendrick: Yeah, and Howie’s not Mr. Total Mountaineer either. I
mean, Howie’s a good climber, but he’s just like most of us,
and he got up there with that backboard. (cry of elation) And Chuck Carpenter
went up with two big climbing ropes over one shoulder. Just to make those
climbs with that kind of gear. And somebody carried the first aid box
up there. I don’t know who, but there was all kinds of heroes all
day. It was a really tremendous team effort. It was way cool.
Steiger: That’s a wild story. And he doesn’t even limp, really….
Just a little bit, but not bad. I remember him wearin’ a brace around
there, but you would never know that it was somethin’ that traumatic.
Wild. (whistles) And that was an Expeditions deal?
Hendrick: No, no, that was a Wilderness World trip, 1983.
***
Steiger: Tell me about your race. You just did…the one with the
sled dogs. Just describe it.
Hendrick: The Alaska Challenge—the Yukon Quest?.
Steiger: I mean, it’s not like you left the river and went and got
a desk job.
Hendrick: No, I am…
Steiger: You’ve been on your track further out there than ever.
Hendrick: …It’s a thousand miles, there’s six checkpoints.
The first check point is 125 miles, about, maybe closer to 155 or 160.
The second checkpoint is 300 miles away. So you go 500 miles before you
can really take a break. It’s a trip, you get really tired and cold,
and you feel real achey and stuff. It’s a lot of hard work.
Steiger: And there aren’t any houses and there aren’t any
telephone poles.
Hendrick: There’s nobody out there.
Steiger: There aren’t any roads, and there’s nothin’.
Hendrick: No, you’re in the bush—we call it the bush. (chuckles)
Steiger: Are there a lot of trees?
Hendrick: The whole thing about the Yukon is, the Yukon doesn’t
really have much of an economy, so the population in the Yukon is pretty
low. There just aren’t a lot of people, there are no jobs, so what
the hell do you do out there for money? There’s some subsistence
people around, but they’re usually natives, and they’re not
hanging out on trails, probably like living in a village or whatever.
But people just don’t live out in the wilderness—it’s
too hard. It’s a wild, wild expanse. You know?
Steiger: Well, not really, because I’ve never seen it, but I can
imagine.
Hendrick: Same kind of space, like at Shane Murphy’s house, lookin’
out the window at the Painted Desert, lookin’ clear across a good,
50, 60, 70 miles ahead of you. It’s a really wonderful thing about
wilderness: in the winter up there you can see forever, and just—the
space is immense.
Steiger: Yeah. Doesn’t have much to do with the Grand Canyon, but
it’s what you’re doin’ right now.
Hendrick: Well, it has a lot to do with the Grand Canyon. It’s the
Planet Earth. The Canyon is just part of the Planet Earth. The Canyon
is not the world, it’s a part of the world. You know, I used to
think that being on a frozen river with snow on it would be uncool. I
only wanted to be on whitewater rivers and all this, but runnin’
sled dogs on a river is a real challenging experience, to say the least.
The race is a thousand miles. You have to summit four mountains and you
have to go along on the river for quite a few hundred miles. So I’ve
been runnin’ that race. That’s what’s kept me away for
so long.
Lew Steiger
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