In the previous Letter, “Reversal”
(bqr 14:3), we saw how the ancient stream pattern on the southern Colorado
Plateau may have changed—by means that we don’t understand
very well—from flowing northward into the sump lakes in Utah to
something resembling the present southerly and southwesterly course of
the Colorado River. Now it is time to focus on the area—northern
Arizona—and the subject—the age and formation of the Grand
Canyon—that hold so much interest for us. This is a complicated
story with many theories and counter-theories, so we will have to divide
this Letter into three parts, to be published sequentially.
Early Views: A Simple Scheme
Early geologists like Powell, and Clarence Dutton who wrote the wonderful
Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon Region, were greatly impressed by
the erosion they saw everywhere on the Colorado Plateau. So much erosion,
they reasoned, must have taken long time and must have started early in
the Tertiary Period, maybe some sixty million years ago. Since the erosion
clearly is caused by the Colorado River and its tributaries, the river
and its Grand Canyon must be that old also. What’s more, uplift
of the Colorado Plateau, into which the Grand Canyon is cut, must be equally
old. The reason is simple: You can only cut a deep canyon if the land
surface is high above sea level, because rivers cannot cut below the level
of the sea.
Conflict
These views held sway for many years, but trouble started brewing in the
1930s and ’40s, when geologists working in the Basin and Range country
west of the Colorado Plateau pointed out that basins in that region are
filled with material deposited locally in closed depressions. This material
contains no evidence for a major through-flowing river such as the Colorado.
Along the course of today’s lower Colorado River, some of these
deposits of interior drainage are as young as six million years or so,
but in much of the Great Basin they are being laid down even today. Particularly
troubling are young beds indicative of interior drainage that are laid
down across what is now the course of the Colorado River at the mouth
of the Grand Canyon: no Colorado River could have flowed through the mouth
of the Grand Canyon as recently as six million years ago.
The grand simplicity of the early views was now disrupted by a grand dilemma:
we knew that the Colorado Plateau contains evidence of a south-flowing
river system that is tens of millions of years old, but we had also just
learned that the Basin and Range country, downstream along the same river
system, contains evidence that the river is at most a few million years
old. This contradiction was highly disturbing, the more so because most
people thought—and many still do today—that the course of
a river is more or less immutable once established. This implies that
all parts of a river are basically of the same age, and that what is true
of a part of the river must be true of the whole. Such notions are in
stark contrast to the view (to which I subscribe) that river systems can,
and in fact are likely to, change with time, evolving into new configurations
by interconnecting in new ways, all brought about by some external stimulus
such as uplift or warping of the land. Implicit in this is the possibility
that different parts of a river can have different histories and be of
different ages.
Conflict Resolution: Attempts
The last several statements should wake up the astute reader with a start.
Wouldn’t this be a way of getting around the grand dilemma? Maybe
the upper part of the Colorado River, on the Plateau, is older than the
lower part in the Basin and Range province?
“Too novel”, said those who supported the notion of “One
river, indivisible and old”. To avoid the unpleasantness at the
mouth of the Canyon, they tried several tacks. The colorful geologist
Charlie Hunt not only held fast to the notion of an ancient Colorado on
the Plateau, but even gave this river its present course through the Grand
Canyon. The river would then have escaped the immovable object at the
Canyon’s mouth by means of a remarkable pirouette: the notion was
that the Colorado exited the Grand Canyon southward by way of Peach Spring
Canyon, an ancient valley a good part of which is now buried by younger
deposits. Problem solved, thought Hunt. Unfortunately, it wasn’t,
because my good friend Dick Young came to show that even the oldest deposits
in Peach Springs Canyon point to streams flowing north into the Canyon,
and not south, away from it as Charlie would have it. Besides, avoiding
the mouth of the Grand Canyon does not solve the problem, which is a pervasive
one: as we now know, any possible continuation of the hypothetical river
downstream from Peach Springs Canyon towards the sea is just as plugged
up by deposits of interior drainage as the area near the mouth of the
Canyon.
Another notion that has been widely circulated is that the Grand Canyon
and the river through it are in fact very old, but the river ceased to
function temporarily at the time of the interior deposits in the basin
and range country because it either ceased to flow or became so overloaded
that it could no longer carry material through the Canyon into the country
downstream from it. The result was that the Canyon became filled with
debris, much of which consisted of “rim gravels”, deposits
carried by the ancient northward drainage system and best exposed along
the Mogollon Rim. This would make the canyon as old as the rim gravels,
maybe even older.
There are many problems with this concept. One is that the Grand Canyon,
all steep rugged walls and short stubby tributaries, has the characteristics
of a young landscape. In the terminology of geomorphologists—people
who study landscape—he canyon is “immature” and “youthful”,
not thirty, forty, fifty million years old. Then, the rim gravels are
much older than the interior-drainage deposits, so can hardly be used
to explain away the great dilemma. A third problem is that the gravel
terraces at Lees Ferry, held up as being part of the ancient fill of the
Grand Canyon derived from the rim gravels, in reality are no more than
a few hundred thousand years old, not tens of millions, and contain much
material derived from the San Juan Mountains country to the north, rather
than material derived from the south. But the biggest problem has to do
with how rivers work: depositing hundreds or thousands of feet of fill
into a large previously-carved canyon requires very unusual, and probably
unrealistic changes in circumstances. The Colorado River has an enormous
drainage basin that contains many mountain ranges, so is unlikely to run
dry, as proposed. In any case, the large basin would ensure a high probability
of floods, which are extremely efficient at carrying debris, and in fact
do nearly all the work even in “normal” rivers, those with
permanent flow. Desert washes seldom carry water, yet the occasional floods
they experience are entirely adequate to transport whatever debris is
dumped into them.
Conflict Resolution: A New Concept
The geologist Eddie McKee studied the Canyon so long and so well that
many of us consider him a sort of patron saint of that remarkable place.
In the early ’60s, he decided it was time to do something about
the great dilemma. He knew the Canyon as well as anybody, and this knowledge
enabled him to identify two areas where important information was likely
to be found. One was the Hualapai Plateau, including Peach Springs Canyon,
where it should be possible to test Hunt’s fluvial pirouette. The
other was the Pierce Ferry area, just west of the mouth of the Grand Canyon,
where the infamous interior-basin deposits were alleged to lie.
|
He then did three things to
achieve his aim: he persuaded the Museum of Northern Arizona to establish
small grants for the study of these areas; then, he found two enthusiastic
and foolish graduate students (Dick Young for the Hualapai Plateau, and
me for Pierce Ferry) to do the studying; finally, he set up a symposium
for 1964 when Dick and I would present our results and the handful of
people who knew anything about the Grand Canyon would get together to
try to come up with some coherent—maybe even sensible—story
on How It All Happened.
At this point, a little reminiscing seems appropriate. In the early ’60s,
the West was still the West, quite innocent of the current hordes of Californians,
Texans and people from everywhere else. There was little in the way of
retirement colonies or trophy-home settlements. St. George was a tiny
Mormon town; Mesquite consisted of a couple of barns and maybe a farmhouse;
Las Vegas occupied a few blocks; the north boundary of Phoenix was not
far from Camelback; Flagstaff did not reach the Museum of Northern Arizona
at one end, while the other Museum (the Club) was out in the boonies at
the other. US 66 was the only east-west highway because no Interstates
existed yet; Highway 164 to the Four Corners was a very long dirt road;
you drove to Phoenix by going down Oak Creek Canyon, passing through a
Sedona limited to Uptown and basically devoid of tourists and vortices
alike. Verde Valley was almost empty. Glen Canyon Dam was being built
and the concrete was coming by truck from Clarkdale through the Oak Creek
road. Just a little later, Lake Powell started being filled and upper
Lake Mead shriveled to a collection of puddles. No private individual
had a four wheel drive vehicle; the plague of suv’s had not yet
descended upon the land, and atv’s and dirt bikes happily had not
yet been invented.
When Dick and I set forth on our respective missions, we went into a silent,
empty, and untracked land. We got around mostly by shank’s mare,
and considered ourselves fortunate to have a few fifteen minute topographic
maps. Mostly, we had no maps at all. There were no other geologists around
to speak of—this stuff was just too remote. Nevertheless, in due
course we did manage to get our work done, the symposium was convened,
the arguing concluded, and the results published by the Museum of Northern
Arizona.
The symposium proceeded largely by elimination: the river could not have
done this, gone there. This is a sensible approach because you have a
much better chance of proving that something isn't than that it is. So,
yes, an ancient river did make it as far as the Kaibab Plateau, but no,
it did not leave the Grand Canyon near its western end. In fact, we felt,
the river did not even cross the Kaibab Plateau, which seemed a formidable
barrier. So, what did the river do, assuming it did not go underground
or just vanish into thin air? Driven to some extent by a notable lack
of alternatives, we proposed that the river followed the course of what
is now the Little Colorado river but flowed in the opposite direction,
that is, southeast. Eventually, the river joined the Rio Grande and emptied
into the Gulf of Mexico.
To those outraged by such a notion, let me say that reversals in the flow
direction of rivers are not that uncommon in geology. In most cases, the
mechanism causing the reversal goes by the swashbuckling name of “piracy
and capture”, whereby some vigorous stream extends itself through
headward erosion far enough to tap some less-vigorous stream in mid course,
suddenly stealing and diverting the unfortunate victim's water. Rivers
and washes extend themselves this way when they have a steeper gradient,
so more erosive power, than their neighbors. This—piracy and capture—was
the big conceptual novelty introduced at the symposium, a novelty that
suddenly had a chance of solving the grand dilemma by making it possible
for different parts of the river to have different histories and ages.
And this is just what we proposed.
The old, sluggish ancestral Colorado river had been flowing peacefully
south then southeast into the Gulf of Mexico for perhaps tens of millions
of years when strange events happened southwest of the Colorado Plateau:
here, the restless movements of the great plates into which the earth's
crust is broken produced a linear depression, the Gulf of California,
which opened five to six million years ago where no gulf existed before.
The narrow northern end of this gulf extended up to north of Bullhead
City, well into what is now the lower Colorado River corridor and less
than a hundred miles from the edge of the Colorado Plateau. And now we
had the makings of great change. Having the Colorado Plateau, standing
5,000 feet or more above sea level, so close to the sea means that any
stream developing into the western edge of the Plateau and draining into
the Gulf would have a very steep gradient indeed, at least fifty feet
per mile. The course of the present Colorado River in the lake Mead area
and western Grand Canyon would have been especially favored: in the Pierce
Ferry area, the river developed in the low spot of the pre-river basin;
on the Hualapai Plateau, it followed the valley at the foot of the Upper
Grand Wash Cliffs, enriching itself with waters draining northward from
the Hualapai Plateau; farther upstream, the Hurricane fault provided a
belt of shattered rock that was easy to erode. With such advantages, and
the steep gradient that was its birthright, the new river extended itself
vigorously into the western Colorado Plateau, creating in the process
the beginnings of the western Grand Canyon. In due course, the river reached
and breached the Kaibab Plateau. This done, the new river was positioned
to tap the old and sluggish ancestral Colorado, capturing and diverting
its waters. Invigorated by increased flow and still made powerful by a
steep gradient, the now-integrated river cut down like a buzz saw, carving
out the Grand Canyon in just a few million years.
Conflict Part II
This was a reasonable proposition that did not violate facts known at
the time. But it had an Achilles’ heel, which lurked in the country
of the low divide separating the drainage basin of the Little Colorado
River from that of the Rio Grande somewhere near the present Interstate
40. If the ancestral Colorado River indeed went where we proposed it did
before capture, it should have passed through this area. But experts in
the geology of the region were quick to point out that no known evidence
documents the former passage through here of a river like the ancestral
Colorado. This by itself was not necessarily a fatal flaw, because river
deposits that could once have been there may later have been removed by
erosion. But this problem became serious when combined with an additional
one, which is that deposits and ancient surfaces buried by the Bidahochi
Formation (in the Hopi Buttes country) seem more consistent with streams
flowing generally northwest, as does the little Colorado River, than with
the easterly flow direction required by our hypothesis. Since the Bidahochi
is Pliocene and started being deposited perhaps six million years ago,
the erosion surface on which it deposited must be older, which places
it squarely in the time when the ancestral Colorado should have been flowing
eastward through this region. Regrettably, the hypothesis advanced by
McKee and colleagues did not stand the test of known evidence; it was
necessary to abandon it, at least in part.
Ivo Lucchitta
This is the seventh in a series of “Letters from Grand Canyon by
Ivo Lucchitta that will appear in future issues of the bqr. This particular
“Letter” will be divided into three parts.
|