In 1857, Lieutenant Joseph Christmas
Ives led one hell of a journey from the mouth of the Colorado upriver
to the Rio Virgin west of Western Grand Canyon. He then plodded overland
with his mule train onto the South Rim and the Coconino Plateau, dropping
partway into Havasu. Next he traversed all the way east and north to Fort
Defiance. This foray into the relatively unknown Southwest was high adventure
of the first caliber. His quote about the sheer desolation of the Coconino
Plateau—“Ours has been the first, and doubtless will be the
last, party of whites to visit this profitless locality”—rings
down to us today, however, with a singular lack of foresight that makes
us shake our heads despite ourselves.
A dozen years later, a Major John Wesley Powell carved out a name for
himself by hiring a crew of Civil War veterans living as mountain men
in the Rockies to row four Whitehalls down a thousand miles of relatively
unknown river canyons along the Green and Colorado rivers. Grand Canyon
was the grand—and ultimately fatal—finale to Powell’s
1869 Expedition of Exploration. (An aside here, a new book just published
this year by Puma Press presents the journals and letters of these first
Grand Canyon River Guides and engagingly explores this expedition with
the eyes of a professional…) Not only did none of Powell’s
surviving crew ever want to run that river again, Powell himself made
only one more partial trip. It is clear from Powell’s ensuing career
that he, like Ives, believed that no one else would be tough enough or
foolish enough to attempt boating the Colorado River in Grand Canyon ever
again. Not even Powell’s second, 1871–1872, crew wanted to
row past Kanab Creek to face Lava Falls, Separation Rapid, and Lava Cliff
Falls. They abandoned their Whitehalls near Mile 144 with a profound sense
of relief. The whole enterprise of continuing downriver was far too taxing
of both strength and courage.
If we don’t watch ourselves, we can tend to be smug today over these
dramatic, perhaps even overdramatic, early accounts of the terrors of
Grand Canyon and that wild beast of a river coursing through it. And we
can grin and roll our eyes at those explorers’ wrong predictions
that no one new would ever be dimwitted enough to venture into the region
again. Not only do we have the whole thing figured out—the cut at
Bedrock, the V-wave in Lava, the whale’s tail in Horn Creek, the
left and right runs in Hance (and the center one at flows of 70,000–95,000
cfs)—we babysit dimwitted newcomers in the depths of that canyon
quite often. Collectively, it seems, a legion of them. Hey, not only do
we know the Canyon and the River, we also know that both together act
as one of the most powerful catalysts of renewal of the human spirit.
We, it turns out, are guides not only into an immensely impressive terrain
on Planet Earth, we are equally guides into the lost canyons of joy within
the human spirit.
Have we—and the Canyon—done this job too well?
None of the outfitters running the Grand Canyon Colorado have to advertise
their services much any more. Sure, the current economic recession and
war have nicked business a bit. But, really, the sixteen commercial nps
concession contracts are relative gold mines when compared to other “real-world”
business out there in that cutthroat national economy of layoffs and bankruptcies.
After all, no new companies can enter the scene in Grand Canyon to present
competition. The Chinese cannot manufacture new, cheap but serviceable
Grand Canyon trips or user-days or launches by using sweat shop/slave
labor. “Our” established and sanctioned and contracted trips
are the number one-rated adventure travel experience in North America.
Powell never would have dreamed this, but now half a million people do
dream of their experiences here and they tell others how wonderful and
even life-changing they were. So, yes, in a business sense, outfitters
seem to have their cake and eat it too. And we are the agents of their
success.
We are also guardians of the quality of this experience. Sure the nps
continues to try to build fences around what we can do, but the majority
of those fences are ones with which we Grand Canyon River Guides already
agree. Some are even ones that we have recommended. Most of us take our
guardianship and stewardship of the Canyon deeply to heart. This deep
love for the Canyon combined with our far superior knowledge of it places
us in a weird psychological position.
Who else, we may ask ourselves, is better suited to take people into this
Canyon with the greatest positive effects on our fellow explorers but
with the fewest negative impacts on the Canyon beside us?
The answer is nobody. Really nobody.
For those of us who dwell on this revelation, our superiority with regard
to Grand Canyon issues compared to the entire remainder of intelligent
life in the universe, lies a deep trap of conceit and hubris. Sure, we’re
smart and we run good clean trips. But so too do other boaters out there,
boaters for whom a private Grand Canyon trip is a float to boating Mecca.
Yes, we’ve all seen private trips rigging in a hurricane-scattered
mess of gear at the launch ramp with a proud heap of 80+ case of beer
stacked up to supply fifteen people with a constant mental anesthesia
for two-plus weeks. And we know that these private boaters’ attempts
to consume that beer—to bring no can home alive—will guarantee
that the experiences of those private boaters in Grand Canyon will be
at best mediocre and more likely a pathetic beer bash that mocks the majesty
of the Canyon. Why not, we ask ourselves, find some pond somewhere, launch
their boats on it, and stay drunk there under their umbrellas and in their
folding chairs, out of our sight and that of the Canyon itself?
Lest we judge too harshly, however, or condemn these “trailer-trash”
private trips as being the typical private trips, let me point out that
most private trips are populated with private boaters who respect the
Canyon and value extremely highly their boating/hiking experiences in
it during their trips. For many of them it is truly the trip of their
lifetimes. So much so that, as with the commercial passengers that we
service, the word spreads.
And the demand grows.
And grows.
Lieutenant Ives and Major Powell would be blown away with the current
state of affairs at the Canyon.
And with shrinking beaches due to the environmentally deleterious operations
of Glen Canyon Dam, the pie fails to expand to accommodate this growing
demand.
The National Park Service in the 1970s made an attempt to determine the
carrying capacity of the river corridor within the Canyon. This carrying
capacity pivoted around camp site numbers, size, and dispersion, and upon
other more social factors such as crowding at attraction sites, rapids,
etc. This attempt at identifying carrying capacity or defining the size
of the “pie” to be sliced up between users became the backbone
of the entire system by which the nps allocates and limits usage of the
river to commercial outfitters and also to the private sector made up
of those who want to row or paddle or motor their own boats themselves.
In short, to be their own pilots. Yes, I know this is common knowledge
but please bear with me for a moment.
The early allocation was roughly 93 percent commercial and seven percent
private. This was shifted several years back to roughly 75 percent commercial
and 25 percent commercial. Commercial outfitters, it might be pointed
out, require both a critical mass of user-days and a very high predictability
of having them to remain in business. An allocation system allowing this,
whatever their slice of the pie might be, is vital. Meanwhile, access
as a private trip permit holder to this 25 percent shifted away from a
lottery system, complained about by many as being one so extremely unreliable
that a private boater might never gain access to the river, and has moved
to the now infamous and hated “Waiting List.”
No matter what your opinion might be of the Waiting List or of private
boating in general, demand by private boaters to be a trip permit holder
now apparently exceeds demand by commercial passengers for access to the
river in Grand Canyon.
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The current Colorado River Management
Plan (crmp) process to somehow revise or “improve” on this
apparent inequity of access is occurring due to nps law and also in response
to a lawsuit by private boaters. This process has become a very hot one,
with scoping sessions scattered across the usa and with more recent “Stakeholder
meetings” and then yet more Stakeholder meetings on the issues of
carrying capacity (what is it, anyway, and how does one determine it?),
motor usage, and allocation of user days between the two major user groups
of private versus commercial. Conspicuously, there exists no nps allocation
for an “educational” sector, again, just commercial and private
plus the large “shadow” allocation for “science/resource
monitoring.”
The scoping sessions, as you might know, were tightly controlled. They
limited most comments to a written format. Even so, this yielded more
than 50,000 comments from 13,000 public commentors. The Stakeholder meetings
(occurring as late as June 2003) were also tightly controlled, and, in
my personal opinion at least, restricted to such arbitrary dimensions
of input and also without allowing true discussion groups that might lead
to consensus compromises, that their value will, I fear, prove to be limited
at best, and detrimentally distortable at worst.
Even so, a pattern emerged with singular clarity: Neither the commercial
outfitters nor those representing the private boating community are eager
to make concessions within their own camps.
This may sound obvious or even facile, but unless such discussion between
the user groups can lead to remedying at least some of what are identified
as inequities enjoyed by both sides, then the entity who will saw the
baby in half will be the National Park Service. And if the latter entity
does a glaringly poor job of it, their completed crmp will result not
in a workable plan but instead in litigation.
For example, commercial outfitters point out that half of the scheduled
private launch dates are canceled or deferred by the permittees, and thus
imply that the private permit holders are not acting in a responsible
manner. They also point out that a minority of private boaters have become
so adept at playing the nps system to get themselves onto private trips
that they do three, or four, or even five private trips in a year, thus
taking private user-day slots away from more deserving private boaters.
The outfitters point out that if the private boating leadership were really
interested in “equity,” as claimed, then they would agree
to new regulations to limit a private boater to one trip per year and
thus “clean their house” of “system-abusers” who
worsen the overall situation for private boaters in general. But, some
outfitters point out, the private boating leadership is not willing to
do this.
A further criticism by outfitters is that, while, yes, it may take twelve
years for a private boater to get his or her own permit to run a private
trip, any private boater is free right now to explore the possibility
of joining a partially filled private trip with a launch date scheduled
for the next 12–24 months; this is exactly, outfitters point out,
the same option that a commercial passenger now faces in trying to get
onto a commercial river trip.
On the other side of the coin, private boaters point out that a twelve
year wait (or even twenty years as some extrapolate) to get a private
launch permit is ridiculously unequal to the one or two year wait that
a person who wants to buy a commercial charter trip faces. Private boaters
say this is socioeconomic discrimination, or even segregation, and unfair.
With such arguments, often degrading into apples-versus-oranges comparisons,
all progress is derailed, which seems to be, for a few, a goal in itself.
In the last “Stakeholder Session” I pointed out to the group
in general—and to several members’ dismay—that all discussion
of allocation scenarios are completely arbitrary and are an exercise in
futility without a very specific and critical body of data. It is absolutely
necessary to the nps, I said, in their deciding an equitable allocation
system, to know what the true demand of the American public in general
is for specific sorts of trips: commercial, private, and educational.
Thus the nps must devise instruments to assess what every member of the
public interested in a river trip through the Canyon actually wants as
their preferred trip. When such data are tallied, they yield a guide for
allocation. This may sound obvious and simple and true, but the knowledge
that such data may yield (assuming that the data are accurate and representative)
is potentially dangerous to every user group and threatening to the status
quo in general, including the status quo of private users, who may discover
that private boaters are an even smaller minority than currently claimed,
while the currently unallocated “educational” user group is
vastly underestimated.
Apropos of this need, the nps is already exploring a “gateway”
concept. This computer gateway would assess every person who wants to
participate in a Canyon river trip—private or commercial—with
a series of questions designed to categorize their specific interests
and preferences. This system does not yet exist but resides in the stage
of conceptualization.
Critics of gateway concept—and of all other social survey instruments
aimed at determining public preference—point out that some people
within any and all user groups will be tempted to stack the deck somehow
by creating a flood of their own user-members to distort the pool of data.
Their ability to do this depends of course on nps safeguards within their
survey system but also pivots on a user group’s combined financial
resources to pay for flooding the system with “extra” or “spurious”
would-be users.
No system is perfect. And all systems are suspect when the status quo
is threatened with change that will hurt a user group.
Unfortunately this problem is ours. Not with some other group of “experts.”
And it devolves upon us to open-mindedly consider and offer positive inputs
in creating a better system.
The pie is shrinking and the demand is growing—and all of this in
an adversarial and litigious arena. Our contributions are critical.
We may never “all get along.” Very likely we will not. Animosities
between some elements of all user groups over allocation may fester forever
due to “equity” being perceived differently by different individuals.
But if we are to behave as rational individuals in a civilized society,
we need to engage in honest dialog with the full foreknowledge that everyone
at the table may have to give up some small part of their slice of the
pie to forge a better allocation system.
Do we have it in us to help shape a fairer system that preserves a viable
commercial outfitter system while allowing the average private boater
out there to gain a workable anticipation that he or she will be able
to hop onto a private trip with three or four years?
I think it is possible, especially if we are willing to re-explore the
idea of “private permit-holder” versus “private boater”
and devise a system that favors the latter and de-emphasizes the exclusivity
of the former.
To pull this off we need to sit at that table and hammer it out. As we
all know, democracy is a messy process. But it is infinitely better than
“Big Brother.”
Hence, when the next crmp review session begins, please be there. Your
positive participation is needed.
This is my last President’s Column in the bqr. I will soon step
down to leave the gcrg presidency in the very capable and sometimes wry
hands of John O’Brien. It has been my pleasure to try to serve you,
my fellow guides, in positive ways. After all, we are a limited breed
and we pay a big price to practice our profession. I’ve tried to
reduce that price. I also, as most of you do, possess a deep respect and,
yes, a somewhat possessive one, for the Canyon itself; I would like to
pay “it” back by attempting to protect it from the seemingly
endless follies and ecological insults perpetrated upon it by our fellow
men (not women, it may be pointed out, just men). In these two dual attempts,
I must admit, I have had what I consider to have been very limited success.
For my parting shot—my Parthian arrow—please let me simply
say: Thanks for trusting me (if you did), and my plea to you is, when
faced with any issues on Grand Canyon, follow your heart and act upon
its dictates.
Michael Ghiglieri
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