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 ur March 27, 2005 two-week Ivo Lucchita geology trip set off from Lees Ferry, heading down the river on three Arizona River Runners motor rafts. Due to the El Nino year, the Canyon was far greener and sporting more flowers than ever seen, by most accounts. Water was everywhere, including pools, ponds and previously dry stream beds, now running.
Day four—Wednesday—we set off doing the loop hike, with lessons in geology from Ivo, scrambling up Carbon Creek then over to Lava Canyon and back down to the river. Camp was back upriver near the Morning Star mine. Greeting us in camp was a full grown wild hen turkey. I’m using wild in only a natural descriptive sense. This little critter was starved for attention, and probably for goodies as well. She strutted about, assisting in camp setup and meal preparations. It’s a good thing we had pork chops. After dinner she sat, like a loving puppy, at our feet and encouraged petting.
Breakfast found her once again helping out in the kitchen, picking up any little dropped item. She jumped up on the tables to ensure proper cooking techniques were used. Later, loading the boats, there she was, poking away and inspecting the process. Our boat, the last to leave, left her on the beach clucking and unhappy. Shortly thereafter, she took to wing and followed us by air. Her attention drawn to a hiker’s camp across river, away she flew, fickle but looking for new adventures.
On we traveled through the routine beauty of our grand surroundings. By now we realized one result of the dense vegetation and abundant moisture was the very few sightings of bighorn sheep and deer, so prevalent in previous years. The animals simply didn’t need to be at river level to enjoy life. On Friday, April 7th, we woke to day twelve at Whitmore camp.
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A couple of our early rising adventurous mates found fresh tracks in the damp sand of the wash. These tracks were easily recognized. They had been left by a mountain lion, prowling through during the night. This was even more impressive as they were very close to the groover site. Our group leader had set her camp out near the wash, the last on the beach. Evidence revealed this lion strolled very close to a peacefully sleeping Jan Taylor.
Packing and moving, we floated on down a few miles. On a ledge at river level I saw a large furry golden brown animal. Now I knew what it was, but my mind kept telling me no, they aren’t here. Finally I shouted out “Bear” and pointed. Brian Hansen immediately swung the boat around. He knew there weren’t any here also, but what the heck, let’s go and look. Yep, a bear. A big bear.
Cameras appeared with lots of pointing and shouting. This guy was not happy we were in his world. Besides the look given us, he started running up the steep canyon wall. Every 100 yards or so he would stop, look back at us, then off again. It was not long until he was at the top of the inner rim, certainly less than one minute. It was then I realized something really important. In spite of Hollywood movies, there would be no sense trying to outrun a really mad bear.
The second boat came along but few saw the bear. We figured due to the distance there wouldn’t be any successful photos. On our boat, noted Flagstaff photographer Rachael “Always Has a Camera In Her Hand” Running, of course, didn’t. She fought to yank it out and snapped a couple of dark spot in the distance photos. One of Arizona’s premier photographers, Gary Ladd, was on the last boat. He didn’t have a chance.
Most on the second boat didn’t believe us. Those on the third, “No, no way, no bears. You guys are full of it.” Well, we took up a discussion and determined to call this sighting a giraffe. Folks would probably believe that just as well as a bear. Only after our return did we find that there were a couple of successful photos made. Our vindication!
Where exactly was this bear? Well, for his protection and allowing for movement, I won’t give the precise location. Just look for him downriver.
Ed Pollock
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