Achim Gottwald The place- incredible. The trip- never long enough.
The experience- unique. Everybody should have it. Everybody? Thats a lot of people
in paradise! No, access to paradise has to be limited if you dont want to turn it
into another Disneyland. Or look at what the Europeans did to the Alps- thats the
large amusement park between Munich and Milan. Dont let it happen to the Canyon.
Here it cannot be merely a matter of supply and demand, of recreation and business, of
fast fun and gourmet food. We are not talking about the management of whitewater
recreation here- at least I hope we arent. This is about the Grand Canyon.
Lets remember this. Always. And the Canyon is a fragile place. Achim Gottwald More than a year ago I was asked to
write a statement for "Perspectives II: Grand Canyon in the year 2000. I
wrote this from my point of view as a commercial passenger. Perspectives II was never
published, and I am glad about that, because two things have happened since then that have
changed my perspective considerably: I read the interview with Rod Nash, and I rowed a
raft on a private trip. Our little group consisted mainly of veteran Grand Canyon boatmen.
Well, they were the boatmen, and I was the veteran, but they kept telling me that Rudi
started running rivers when he was 48, and I shouldn't worry. I was going to be fine. I
didn't do too badly. "It's still a golden trip- swimmers don't count, Jeff
assured me after I had left the raft for a minute in Granite. And indeed, I made it
without flipping, wrapping or wrecking. Yes, they let me run Kwagunt. They let me run
Crystal. I ran everything from Badger to Lava, and now I am back home, exhilarated and
confused. Because I read the Nash interview again, and it all makes sense, and at the same
time it doesn't. For me, of course, everything has changed. I cannot imagine going down
the river again and watching somebody else row. Which means I will have to get my name on
the wait list and expect to get a permit by the year 2004, if I'm lucky. Ridiculous! In
the meantime, I will encourage other people to go on a commercial Grand Canyon trip. I
know many people who should have this experience, because it is unique, and I am sure it
will change them. I will send them on an oar trip, preferably with dories, because they
are more beautiful and much more fun to ride in. I don't like motor trips because the rigs
are big, noisy and smelly, and they go way too fast for me. Now don't get me wrong: on our
trip I loved the motors, because they come and go so quickly, and if you do run into them
at "honeypots" like Deer Creek or Havasu, the guides are like all the boatmen I
have met over the years: simpatico, friendly and helpful. Like Michael Geanious, who not
only put up with that boisterous group of five-year-olds (us) that invaded Redwall Cavern
while his group was still there, but who offered ice for our sweating cooler or anything
else we might need. And no, I am not influenced by the fact that halfway through our trip
we got a bag of pork chops, which may not seem much to you, but then you probably never
sent only vegetarians to do the shopping. What I want to say is that relations between
privates and commercials, oars and motors were excellent at all times. And the Canyon
never felt crowded. But solitude? Not with the omnipresent, penetrating, constant drone of
those ugly little planes. I wrote to the FAA at once... I guess I got a little
side-tracked here. |